Showing posts with label Chowhound. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Chowhound. Show all posts

Wednesday, January 28, 2009

Shannon Yates' Mad Take-Out Takes Fort Myers by Storm!

Shannon Yates is on a roll. Mad Take-Out (MTO) is his latest culinary success, and a brilliant idea, shared with its Executive Chef, Ruth Cohen. He’s stayed within ½ mile of Cru, which he transformed, during the 2004-7 housing market bubble, into arguably the must sought after spot in Lee County. (Cru closed in Dec., after he, and subsequent chefs, left.) He then resurrected Bacchus (briefly Toro) in the Bell Tower shops, which is packed with his loyal followers. Now, with Mad Take-out's volume, just a few weeks after opening, he’s got another success, and it doesn’t even have a chair or table to sit at.

In the diminutive Pinebrook Plaza, north of Bell Tower, north of Cantina Laredo, and east of Outback, they have created a sparkling clean, well organized catering size kitchen with more than ample room to prepare a cocooning couple’s take-out dinner,a family's lunch, or a party of 300’s multi course catered event. Not a problem.

Step inside-you’re greeted by friendly people. Look at the menu’s over 80 possibilities. (compare that to moribund Cru’s meager twelve offerings). The Mad take-Out concept is simple. Veteran caterer Ruth Cohen is meticulous about using truly fresh ingredients. All is made on site. For example, starting with the pizza dough, from spelt flour instead of regular wheat flour. Spelt is a tasty, healthy cousin of wheat. I ordered the $18 16” Spaniard pizza, with spelt crust, mozzarella, Spanish chorizo slices, shrimp and red pepper. The crust was rolled out, in front of me, sauced, and slid in the
huge Garland pizza oven. In no time it was boxed, and I shared it with other pizza lovers who said “this crust is really good-who makes it?” There's 7 basic pizzas, and over 24 topping choices. I also sampled the earthy yet light hummus, the properly made tabbouleh, and savored the large, bright green fresh, meaty Ceringola olives. Don’t like salty olives? Well, these meaty fresh babies “have your name” on them, and just one can make you lust for more. My partner loved the Ultimate Veggie wrap sandwich, with avocado, tomato, alfalfa sprouts, Swiss cheese and Vegenaise on green Ezekiel bread, and it's not even St. Paddy's Day. Very lush and very filling for only $5.25. There’s five spring rolls, with the signature “Krazy roll’s” surimi crab, cream cheese, to-chi sauce and teriyaki glaze. The best! We took a Hamachi and scallion sushi roll ($7.25) from the cooler, and the yellowtail is fresh as could be. There’s also hot sandwiches, oven roasted chicken, various past dishes and over a dozen salads. MTO has food for lactose diets, high protein diets, Celiac diets. The salads come in small, medium, and family sizes. The sandwiches are good sized. A popular sandwich features tasty red tomatoes, mozzarella cheese and homemade olive tapenade on a thick bread roll. Dig in. There's a big cooler with other goodies.
Got picky kidz? Entice them with chicken fingers, hot dogs, fried mac ‘n cheese, grilled cheese, PBJ, little pizzas and even tater tots.

Best part? You can order from your home computer, by cell phone, fax, or send smoke signals- your order will be ready and waiting. I’m just psyched, happy it's opened, and amazed at how smoothly everything runs. I just don't have time to cook. This makes take- out far easier than grocery shopping and cooking. The enjoyable quality, price and quantity makes it a slam dunk.

Kick back with one of over 20 soft drinks, a dozen red wines and as many nice white wines, in full bottle, with some half sized “splits”.

Have a sweet tooth? The Tate’s Bake Shops’ Chocolate Chip Cookies are to die for! Light and crisp, they're a healthy pleasure. Ditto for the Sweet Olive Oil Tortas. These thin round crisp, lightly oiled 5” wheat “flat breads”, eight to a box, are lightly dusted with sugar and anise seed. Savor as dessert, or serve 'em with cheese, jam, coffee or tea. The smoked salmon is tops! One mini-Godiva Chocolate cheesecake will satisfy a sweet tooth, and not add to the waistline.Finding these goodies is why I, like the others in the shop with me, will come back, again and again. Ruth and Shannon have healthy foods, be they familiar as mac ‘n cheese or mildly exotic as spelt crust pizza. Their creations are made with love, reasonably priced, and gourmet quality. It tastes that way, or Ruth wouldn’t let you put it on your table. Fast, friendly take-out service. Fresh, healthy food. What better nourishment than this, to enjoy in your home?

Mad Take-Out, Pinebrook Plaza, 12995 S. Cleveland Ave just north of the Bell Tower Shops, 693-TOGO, or madtakeout.com
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*******ADDENDUM 5/25/09******
Shannon Yates is no longer associated with Mad Takeout or with Bacchus. According to Manager Cyndie Doragh, Shannon recently split, amicably, and he is off for a well needed rest in Europe. Shannon didn't respond to my emails.
He's creative and successful at whatever cuisine he creates. I wouldn't be surprised if he moves to Naples or to another city, with a greater audience for his finer cuisines. Madtakeout's high quality should continue, with able Ruth Cohen still at the helm.
*****ADDENDUM 2/17/2012***
Shannon didn't move, he went back to Cru for a while to work with Chef Harold Balink till a noncompete clause period was over, and left.  Bacchus folded without Shannon.
He then  started and ran Lush for about a year, until 12/31/2011, when it was sold to a group of restauranteurs. Acrimonious words and complaints flowed between all thereafter, and it was renamed Stillwater Grille.   
And yes, Mad Takeout did not last long without Shannon.
Next?

Saturday, January 24, 2009

Chowhound Chowdown at IM Tapas Naples

The stars and planets aligned just right. Naples' I M Tapas restaurant was the epicenter, as a dozen chowhounds converged, and most met for the first time. RevrendAndy and MrsRev put out the word Jan 3rd, and handled the logistics, as Chowhounds from Chicago, Lake Tahoe, North Carolina, Italy, Bonita Springs and Naples Florida met. We unknowingly formed a culinary "critical mass", for a treasured evening with warm friends and great food.

The restaurant was in awe as RevrendAndy and MrsRev regally entered as if on a red carpet, TomOHaver and Chef Mary were warmly welcomed, as the group greeted each other as if long lost friends. The distinguished JohnB and Janet brought cool weather with them.Two published food writers and the other Chowhounds soon joined.
As TomOHaver so aptly stated on Chowhound.com's IM Tapas thread, “Chef/owner Isabel Pozo Polo and her partner and staff have created just about the most perfect small restaurant you can imagine: delightful intimate atmosphere, out-of-the-way location, wonderful food and service, and very reasonable prices. It does not get much better than this." Fortunately the chowhounds are into sharing and comparing, so many fine plates were passed around the table, for all to taste.

I’ve previously posted on I M Tapas at :
http://aninsatiableappetite.blogspot.com/2008/08/im-tapas-spanish-treasure-in-naples.html
and it’s a magical bistro, with a warm, friendly staff. Executive Chef Isabel Pozzo Polo and Sous Chef Mary Shipman took time out from the fiery stoves to visit and explain the recipes and techniques.

We had a shared feast of over sixteen creations. Each person ordered a dish, and sent it around the table, so all could sample the beautifully prepared cuisine. The Napoleon de Remolacha (10), is a medley of coins of roasted beets, layered between creamy goat cheese slices, with crunchy, powerfully flavorful bits of Serrano lardons, topped with pine nuts. Try the Wild Mushroom confit's earthy bites of varied fresh warm ‘shrooms sautéed and served in a small metal cauldron for your delight. There may be black trumpets, chanterelles, oysters, enokis and various Asian rarities to tickle your palate.
The Espinacas a la Catalana- wilted spinach with pine nuts, dried cherries and a light vinaigrette, is a salad that a carnivore would appreciate.
The Racion de Jamon Ibérico de Bellota (below) is the classic prepared acorn fed Iberian ham, cut paper thin, with a succulently rich, taste. A Southwestern type touch is the Flores de Calabaza- wild zucchini blossoms filled with Capri cheese and Jamon Serrano, then flash fried in extra virgin olive oil. Roll the crisp blossoms on your tongue, then bite into the melted goat cheese, with a touch of Hawaiian or Nepali sea salt. MMMmmmm!
The fresh anchovies in garlic sauce, topped with slivered garlic, are an incredible treasure; rarely offered in the USA. A must try!You can not go wrong with the Artichoke hearts filled with Serrano Ham and Manchego cheese, then poached in a wonderful roasted garlic fume. I could dine on two orders, and be happy!The Seared Duck Breast, with Caramelized Figs, and Port Reduction (15) is my favorite, cooked medium rare, for its almost gamey rich taste, and accented by a crisp herb crust. The Oriol Vin del Aspres is a perfect accompaniment, much like a pinot noir, to play off the Port reduction and the sensual duck.
The Lubina a la Plancha is the Mediterranean dorada, or sea bream, cooked whole, then the spine and bones is removed from the two fillets, deep fried till the bones are crisp, and all served in its tender glory with warmed virgin olive oil, piquillos and chervil. Nice!Shrimp in Garlic sauce, with bits of finely chopped garlic, is a delightful order of large shrimp, cooked just enough, and served tender with the garlic heat-tempered to give its richness, rather than the sharpness of raw garlic. The Hot Pimenton-spiced Octopus, was a little over cooked, and firmer than it should have been, however the saucing was spot on. With sixteen orders from our table, and other diners tables' orders as well, I’m amazed only one dish came out cooked perhaps a minute too long. Still, every molluscan morsel was consumed. What’s life without some Hudson Valley Foie Gras, coated with a caramelized diced Granny Smith apple, with hot persimmon seeds, and enveloped in a Calvados and maples syrup reduction. If this sounds a touch too sweet for you, have the sensual seared foie gras first, then the apple and reduction next. The foie gras is almost erotic in its succulence.Gabriele, our server, is quite the cook himself, and he is knowledgeable about the finer points, and hands on alchemy, of molecular gastronomy.

The Beef Tenderloin with Cabrales bleu cheese and a chopped sweet onion confit is a great medley, served best rare or medium rare, with the trio in each bite. Adventuresome? The most amazing looking plate of the evening was the Wild Scarlet Lobsterines and scampo a la plancha, that is grilled, crustaceans that tasted like a delicate lobstser, which were opened and prepared tableside (I interrupted the process, below, for my photo.)
Delicious seared wild bonito with pomegranate sautee and pomegranate reduction is better than others' ho-hum "sushi-grade" tuna. (There's no such "grade", so beware of restaurants that offer this bogus "grade."
A delicous Spanish cheese plate with 5 selections is the finale.
Meeting other Chowhounds is a rare treat, and learning about their paths in life, and amazing twists and turns along the way, adds such a depth of knowing to the people behind the helpful postings. Our demographics-ages ran from 20’s to perhaps early 70’s, all sorts of educational backgrounds, with a wedding photographer, a food and social photographer, a registered nurse, an ex-emergency room doctor, a sommelier, and two seasoned educators. Many cook rather well, (Cuban, French, Thai, kitchen sink) and most had significant international travel experiences. Among the group, there is over 600 hours of logged SCUBA dives, from Papua New Guinea to the Caribbean. Pretty bright, colorful bunch! All are united by curiosity and passion for all sorts of foods, and the desire to both share their food and their passions through their Chowhound postings.

IM Tapas -965 Fourth Ave. N., Naples 403-8272 Open 5:30 p.m.- Tues. through Sat. (Located almost 1 block East of the Downtown NCH Hospital complex and Dairy Queen, East of 41)

Sunday, January 11, 2009

Café Normandie Naples Review

Café Normandie is The French Deli, renamed; it’s now serving dinner as well as lunch. Owner Benoit Legris changed the name last year. It really is a full, bisto sized restaurant, and now a great dinner bargain.

There’s often a lunch time waiting line. The Café was packed as we entered Friday at 7:30 pm, and perched at our tiny table along the wall, on slightly awkward stools, happy to have squeaked in. Waiter Jeremy warmly greeted us, and took our wine order, for an “ok” house pinot noir ($8), and a better sauvignon blanc (8). We took in the cheerful yellow walls, very low lighting, paintings of French scenes, and a local artist’s works for sale. A central display case highlights the desserts. The noise level is moderate to high. There’s not much room between tables, so suck it in. That’s the price of being in a popular bistro, Naples Style. The average age was perhaps 70, with a 30’s couple, and some octogenarians. That’s Naples style, too. We were seated, soon ordered at 7:30, and our appetizer came 50 minutes later, at 8:20. We were famished, and devoured the three Smoked Salmon Petit Fours ($4.50). The slightly soggy flake pastries have tender smoked salmon, spinach, melted Swiss cheese, and warm béchamel sauce on the side. Tender baby spinach leaves with chopped onion and tomato fill the rest of the plate. "This could be a lunch", my partner said. For $4.50, it’s a very good, and tasty deal. The neutral béchamel gives a nicely understated moisture and contrast to the rich mouth feel of the petit fours. For the same $4.50, there’s a ham, tomato and Swiss, or a beef, fresh mushroom and Brie petit four as well. Or have Escargot de Bourgogne, for $6, or Foie Gras slices with salad and toasts for $13. Complimentary fairly freshly baked, then sliced baguettes, and tiny plastic cups of butter are a nice touch. Unfortunately we (hungrily) ate too many slices during our wait for food.

"The Dance", Henri Matisse The Hermitage, on loan to
There are only 5 entrees at dinner, ranging from $15 to $18 each. That's no typo! Similar offerings would be $25-28 on Naples 5th Ave South, and perhaps $28-34 at pricey Cote d’Azur, without better quality than served here. That’s pricing, Café Normandie Style. After a 35+” wait, charismatic Jeremy arrived with our entrees, and apologized for the too long wait, saying they expected only 25, and had over 70 for dinner, running out of what we first ordered, the Sea Bass a la Normande (18). We enjoyed the Canard aux Pêches (18), a filling and tender half duck, with crispy skin. Accompanying are scalloped potatoes au gratin, and a ratatouille style, too highly spiced vegetable mix with carrots and zuchini, that, if eaten first, overwhelmed the delicate duck and its light peach sauce. Not a problem, just eat them after the duck.

The Shrimp and Sea Scallops au Gratin is another winner, with a good half dozen large diver scallops and as many small shrimps, perfectly cooked, within a béchamel -tomato sauce, topped with melted Swiss cheese, and toasted bread crumbs. Sides were tomato-basil rice and the (too spicy) mixed vegetables. A generous and very tasty portion for $16! This is French comfort food, not haute cuisine, so adjust your expectations, and be quite pleased at the price/quality/quantity. There’s also Roasted Chicken with creamy Dijon sauce (15), and Boeuf Bourgjugnon (16).


We filled up on bread, and had no room for desserts. I’d previously had the Tarte Tatin for lunch; this upside down apple and caramel delight is served with a scoop of vanilla ice cream (5.50).
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Several Portions of Tarte Tatin, Waiting to be Cut.
There’s also crème brûlée (5), hot crepes with choice of sugar, Nutella, or jam (5.50), and Danish (2.25).

The next night, Saturday, we drove along 5th Ave South at 7 pm, and saw plenty of empty tables at Vergina’s and Trilogy, with many people walking past. And yes, casual Café Normandie, and nearby, popular upscale casual Escargot 41, were both full. We’ll return to Café Normandie to try the other entrees. It's been a while since we had dinner and wine for under $60. I’m sure more waitstaff will be hired; the long waits should stop. Why did I mention the patrons ages? This is an affordable spot for “date night”, ideal for those, also in their 20’s-30’s, to enjoy. Bon Appétit.

3756 US 41, Tamiami Trail North, Naples (just south of Office Max, the former Rooms to Go’s original location), 261-0877.

Sunday, December 21, 2008

Naples Sea Salt Restaurant Review

Sea Salt is an elegant young lady in town, the "newest kid on the block", on Naples 3rd Avenue South, a gnocchi’s toss from Campiello and just north of Tommy Bahama’s. The Sea, as in the Gulf of Mexico and Naples beach, is two blocks away. And the food? Chef Fabrizio Aielli can cook! Previously, in 1999, he and wife Ingrid opened his highly successful restaurant, Washington D.C.’s tony Teatro Goldoni, and groomed it into a “must visit” spot. They sold it in 2007, moved to Naples, and just opened Sea Salt a few weeks ago. A 2002 James Beard Foundation Star Chef Award Recipient, and a former chef at Naples Winter Wine Festival, he’s nationally respected. While Chef Fabrizio is clearly “hands on” in the kitchen, the front of the house is covered by personable, artistic Ingrid. Active partner Lili Montes minds the financials and other details.

Lili Montes, Chef Fabrizio and Ingrid Aielli They gutted a failed clothing store, and created an elegantly simple, beautiful setting for lunch and dinner. The patio is the perfect spot to people watch on 3rd Ave S. The curved outside bar is a favorite vantage point.

Clyde Balch, Lobster Bisque and Server Inside, there's wooden floors and ceilings, and the 3 dimensional limestone wall featuring inset color photos of Old Naples.

Gina and Ingrid at 3-D Limestone wall with Naples PhotosThis is a freshly designed concept. From the white tablecloths and napkins, to the servers attractive black uniforms with striped aprons, a lot of thought has created Old Naples newest spot to "see and be seen". My favorite spot would be the true Chef’s Table, a table that can sit 8, smack dab in the kitchen's center. Whether you are a foodie, or just curious about the inner workings of a commercial kitchen, this is the place to be!We sat at Table 54, to both view the dining room and look into the kitchen, ably served by attentive Gina. Ingrid told us that Chef Fabrizio has several vendors for just seafood alone, and several for primarily organic produce. A look at the fresh seafood and produce, and the lack of odors in the kitchen attest to his meticulous nature, and passion for cooking with only the freshest ingredients. He’s passionate about salts, with over 100 salts from around the world, and yes, you can easily taste the difference between salts!

A Trio of Salts with Extra Virgin Olive Oil. We started with an Italian white wine, the Antinori Vermentino. ($8), nicely complementing the Crispy Assortment, below. Sea Salt has over 500 wines, and the staff is knowledgeable on pairing.

We loved the generous serving and the delicate, crisp batter of the Crispy Assortment of calamari, shrimp, oysters and scallops with salty lemon ($19). The batter had just the right amount of salt, pepper and light spicing to complement the delicate seafood. An appetizer larger than some entrées in Naples, one could not ask for fresher or better quality seafood. My dining partner said “You can taste the freshness of the seafood underneath the batter, and tell it’s good!” The wine is a great match for this and other seafood.

The Thin Slice Sauteed Calamari with Portobello mushroom cappuccino, root vegetable fettuccini, and quail egg was a hit (12). A delicate gem, it shows Chef Fabrizzio’s mastery of cooking all ingredients perfectly, balancing their tastes, and creating a whole that exceeds it’s components. The calamari are sensually tender, and the cappuccino foam light, and understated. The poached quail egg tops it all off, with panache.

The next white wine to try is an Argentinian absolute delight, the Sagta Torrontes 07 ($7.50/glass), and all we could breathlessly say was: Wow!” Light and crisp, with a hint of peach, this is a superb well priced wine we’d buy to “just sip” by itself, let alone well paired with seafood.

The Squid Ink Ricotta Gnocchi with ragu of artichoke and skinned tomato, topped with bottarga (15), lets the Ricotta cheese taste and texture stand out, accentuated by the dried tuna roe, or bottarga, with the tomato’s richness tying it all together. We scooped up the sauce with complimentary crusty bread slices, tender and soft on the inside.

One could also try the three Carpaccios- Tuna with Quail’s Egg (14), Salmon with Capers, red onion, mustard-ginger vinaigrette and pink Himalayan salt (12), or Kona Kampachi (below), with jalapeno, seaweed and orange balsamic soy, with red Hawaiian salt (12).

We wanted to try a red wine, and were pleased with the Paul Hobbs El Felino, an Argentinian Malbec, light enough for fish, and it would go well with beef.

The roasted salmon marinated in limoncello (28) is “childs play” for Chef Fabrizzio, and he finishes it with a light crust, serves it atop a green lentil-mustard sauce, and tops it with a shaved red poached pear. The supporting veggies are roasted cipollini onions and tender turnips. The portion size is quite fine for me.

The Seared Tuna (32) is properly served rare, with rosted red and gold beets, topped with a heavenly sautéed morsel of high grade foie gras (the cheaper kind doesn’t sear this well), resting on a balsamic reduction and roasted onions-delicious. This is a decent portion size, a better grade tuna than often offered elsewhere, elegantly presented.

The White Truffle Risotto with white truffle oil is heavenly, with a generous portion of shaved white truffles on top. This is "the food of the gods", delicate on the palate, and truffle- earthy at the same time. See if this special is available-well worth it!

There’s also Swordfish Crusted with Crabmeat, served with tomatoes, thyme sauce, and baby artichokes (32), and Broiled Black Grouper with grape tomato pops and chives, served with shiitake shrooms and truffled soft polenta. (32). There’s also a Braised Lamb Shank with fig and fennel, served over fontina and Swiss chard mashed potatoes (28), a grilled brick pressed young chicken (27), and Five Spice Dusted Bone- in Prime Ribeye (below) with black truffle zabaglione, roasted shallots and fingerling potatoes (42).
I’d come here just for desserts, too. There’s almost a dozen gelati and sorbets, each for just $2.95. One sorbet contains mango, ginger, and green tea. Gelati include a double stracciatella chocolate, and a vanilla and white truffle gelato. Also, there’s mini-sized deserts for just $3.50, with Cappuccino Tiramisu, bread pudding, Chocolate passion fruit, and even an almond linzer, to name a few.

We loved the fresh Pistachio gelato, (below left) creamy as it should be, not like an ice cream.The Black Raspberry-Candy Orange Sorbet (above right), topped with black salt was my favorite- by a salt grain. Gelato is made with less air than American ice cream, so it's richer in taste. It's also kept not as coldly frozen as ice cream, so it stays creamy. Put any gelato in your home freezer and it turns solid-bad move!

For chocaholics, there’s a large assortment of Norman Love’s chocolates for $2.25 each. There’s one made especially for Sea Salt, with, what else, a topping of crunchy salt. Visit the market back on the left, before the kitchen, with sea salts, meats, cheeses, and more to buy and try.

The food is first rate at Sea Salt. Fresh, creative, and it tastes terrific. Check it out!.

Sous Chef Magician A Birthday Party, Sea Salt Style

Cotton Candy comes with the Check!
Sea Salt- 1186 Third Street South, Naples, FL 434-7258
Let me know your opinion and experience with Sea Salt!