M Waterfront’s Summer Chef Series- Foie Gras Theme with IM Tapas Chefs

I was lucky, really lucky,  to reserve one of the last sunset seats at M Waterfront Grille’s Summer Chef Series on Sept. 19th, 2011 for the special six course Chef’s dinner centering around the featured ingredient of foie gras. Because of their fine cuisines, I’ve been a frequent diner and happy camper for years at Executive chef Brian Roland’s M Waterfront Grille, and also at chefs/owners Isabel P. Polo and Mary Shipman’s Spanish- oriented bistro, IM Tapas. Who else but Chef Brian would have combined their different styles into shared culinary creations, culminating in one over-the-top evening? This dinner quickly sold out to over sixty food lovers, many of whom were repeat diners at the previous Chef Series dinners. The diners who added the $45 wine pairing option presented by Augustan Wine Imports were very pleased with their choice. 

Chefs Mary Shipman, Brian Roland, and Isabel Pozo Polo

 Sunset dining at M Waterfront Grille is a treat, seated by the broad expanse of windows on Naples Bay. Relax and watch small boats go by, or an occasional dolphin- it’s a magical time of day. Add the warm autumnal indoor décor and just-low enough lighting for dining, and it’s a perfect stage for amazing meals.

Whether the evening was characterized by the “Battle of the Sexes” or “vive la différence” is up for grabs, however the three not-shy chefs were all hugs and high fives as the evening progressed! Much like a duck going quickly across water, the chefs’ calm demeanor to diners probably did not reflect any furious duck-paddling in the kitchen needed to get six courses out to 70 diners in a timely manner!
The chefs described each food course before serving. At the next dinner, each paired wine could also be expounded upon.

Chefs Isabel and Mary led with Fois gras milkshake shooters on one side of the plate-unlike anything you’ve ever had at DQ or your favorite soda shop.

IM Taps Foie Gras Milkshake; M Waterfront's Foie Gras Demisphere with Port Wine Gelée

 The rich shooter shake of luscious foie gras, cream had a touch of coffee  held a hidden surprise-the pool of  fresh raspberry reduction/gastrique/vodka at the bottom. Wow! Most of the other diners could have nursed a shooter or two of this ambrosiacal aphrodisiac, er, milkshake all night! This was topped with a Catalan pa amb tomàquet- a traditional Spanish toasted baguette slice topped with a puree of roasted tomato, roasted garlic and olive oil, then drizzled with foie gras beurre noir- the French style nutty-accented browned butter.

    Chef Brian rose to their challenge-his side of the plate was graced with a picture perfect foie gras demi sphere, served atop a Port wine gelée with sautéed apple espuma (foam), crumbled hazelnut dust and topped with tangy micro basil.

 A refreshing light contrast between the rich foie gras and the wine gelatin’s fruity taste and texture!

One of the best parts of wine dinners is meeting new friends-foodies. I was so fortunate to meet David and Kate Albers, two food lovers who honeymooned in Paris-how much more romantic can a couple be? Jim Greely of ABC Fine Wine and Spirits is one of the most passionate and knowledgeable wine mavens I’ve met. He has a down to earth way of sharing a complex subject in a way that left us eager for him to come teach a wine education class at one of Naples ABC stores.

Jim, Chef Brian, Kate and David

Chefs Isabel and Mary next countered with an addictive gem; roasted black mission fig “Sushi”, stuffed with a light foie gras mousse. The brandied mousse reminded me of umami-rich uni- the savory sweet and a touch salty sea urchin roe delicacy.

 The herbal touches of thyme, bay leaf and brandy’s depth let one quickly know that this was more than any surf or turf. The orange deep fried pickled ginger slices have a sweet sharpness and mild heat. (I’d buy a bag and eat them like potato chips, or, hmm, try to fry a batch at home.) A full bottle or two of Jumilla Olivares Monastrell seemed to have been reduced to a few blissful ounces, then artfully drizzled on the "sushi." The paired glass of Cava Naveran, Dama, from Spain's Penédes region gave a sparkling fresh mix of summer fruits and minerals-a fittingly fine vintner’s counterpoint to foie gras “sushi”.

Eight servers emerged as a team, serving all dishes to an entire table of eight simultaneously. The octet repeated this ballet for all courses and tables. (BTW, This is usual service at the Ritz Carlton.) I only wish other restaurants would take note. When a server serves first three diners at a six place table, making the other three diners uneasily wait till they are served minutes later, the first three diner’s dinners have by then lost heat, and  they have lost a bit of enthusiasm for the restaurant. When restaurants have such hodgepodge service, I choose to not return, and happily tell others of the restaurant’s thoughtless serving style. When chefs fire all of a tables dishes to be delivered simultaneously, and service delivers the dished to the diners simultaneously, you know you’ve been blessed by a professional, caring staff.

Chef Brian fired a broadside (pun intended) at the dynamic duo of Isabel and Mary with a brilliantly named trio called, “Duck, Duck, Goose! “Ménage à Foie.”

The duck fois gras crème brûlée was a lasciviously creamy blend of two favorite dishes, with the gustatory pleasure heightened by a topping of vanilla salt, lavender-sugar and Naples Honey’s honey in a lacy crystallized honey crisp. We’re talking major food porn, here. Unabashed aphrodesiacal delights. Shouldn't this Viagra-like dish be sold only on Valentines’ Day?

In the center of the plate, the duck prosciutto-wrapped summer asparagus’s taste was further heightened by Ermitage Triple Cream cheese, quince jam, and a drizzle of foie-Champagne vinegar vinaigrette. OMG!! The accompanying crisp, fruity Ladera Sagrada Castelo do Papa Godello, Valdeorras, Spain ’10 was a superb match for this foie trio. (Valdeorras means “Valley of Gold.”) It’s hard to match wine for asparagus. This golden Galician Godello grape gem from Spain’s northwest corner has Viognier –type floral and citrus accents, and retails for under $18. ABC’s Jim Greely pointed out that when in doubt, a Sauvignon Blanc is a very good pairing for asparagus, artichokes, or other unruly vegetables.

The goose foie gras torchon mini-tower (on the right, above) is a sliced pâté cylinder on a semi-frozen slab of goat cheese panna cotta, which rests on a crisply-toasted pumpernickel bread round. This Lilliputian lily is further gilded; topped with tomato marmalade and granular sea salt. “Oh my gawd! This is to die for” says one swooning dining companion. What a trio!

Dining is a social event, and I was happy to also talk with Executive Chef Christopher Cassel, Founding President of the Southwest Florida Chapter of the American Culinary Federation of Fort Myers, and Fort Myers’ Chef Jacques Perry-welcome tablemates.

Visiting from Fort Myers-  Chef Perry, and Chef Cassel

 Chefs Isabel and Mary came back with a “bubbleicious theme” to accompany their crisp skinned roasted Chilean seabass and seared foie gras, with tender sliced fennel. This was accented with bubbles of delicate sparkling Rosé cava vinaigrette with foie butter, and a Cava foam. The surprise bubble in the spoon was crafted of oyster juices, spherized by simple application of molecular gastronomy’s alchemy.

Chef Brian’s grilled filet mignon was cooked to ideal medium rare, sliced in half and topped with a perfectly scored and seared medallion of foie gras.

This was placed on crisp brioche French toast that was dipped in a foie custard then pan-seared. (Make that French toast at home!) The plate was garnished with succulent meaty roasted fresh wild mushrooms and sage. A brown butter-sweet corn and truffle buttered popcorn cream sauce was a welcome treat, with fresh popped corn and edible flowers completing a beautiful plating. The diners at my table all flipped over the amazing tastes of the synergistic combinations, which tasted far better than I can describe.

Dessert was a collaboration between the three chefs. “Foie gras three ways” is not a usual dessert course. The chocolate dipped Foi-E-Claire, was piped with a mousse of foie gras, brandy and cinnamon. The foie gras ice cream (a killer frozen creation with rich cream and sugar) was sprinkled with foie gras sugar and topped with garden-fresh mint.

A whispy cloud of foie gras cotton candy with liquor-macerated fresh berries on a smear of caramel ganache completed a fantastic dessert of a lifetime, accented with a nice glass of Vouvray. Yes, a Sauterne, Barsac or Muscat would have been a traditionalist’s predictable choice-this dinner was anything but predictable!

Bottom line- this and other Summer Chef Wine Series are a steal of a deal- five courses of heavenly food for $95, and I recommend adding the $45 wine pairing to make for an out of this world evening. The sixth and final of the Summer chef Series is October 17th, featuring guest chef David Speegle of Naples Roy’s Restaurant. The theme is quail eggs. Make your reservations for M Waterfront Grille now.

Visit IM Tapas for top quality tapas, heavenly stuffed squash blossoms, superb paellas, whole Mediterranean sea bass, Spanish wines and more-it’s clearly one of my favorite bistros in Florida. The tapas are the equal of or exceed the quality of tapas I’ve tasted in Spain.

M Watefront Grille 4300 Gulf Shore Blvd., Naples, 263-4421, www.mwaterfrontgrille.com

IM Tapas, 965 4th Avenue North, Naples, 403-8272, Imtapas.com

Chowhound Chowdown at IM Tapas Naples

The stars and planets aligned just right. Naples' I M Tapas restaurant was the epicenter, as a dozen chowhounds converged, and most met for the first time. RevrendAndy and MrsRev put out the word Jan 3rd, and handled the logistics, as Chowhounds from Chicago, Lake Tahoe, North Carolina, Italy, Bonita Springs and Naples Florida met. We unknowingly formed a culinary "critical mass", for a treasured evening with warm friends and great food.

The restaurant was in awe as RevrendAndy and MrsRev regally entered as if on a red carpet, TomOHaver and Chef Mary were warmly welcomed, as the group greeted each other as if long lost friends. The distinguished JohnB and Janet brought cool weather with them.Two published food writers and the other Chowhounds soon joined.

As TomOHaver so aptly stated on Chowhound.com's IM Tapas thread, “Chef/owner Isabel Pozo Polo and her partner and staff have created just about the most perfect small restaurant you can imagine: delightful intimate atmosphere, out-of-the-way location, wonderful food and service, and very reasonable prices. It does not get much better than this." Fortunately the chowhounds are into sharing and comparing, so many fine plates were passed around the table, for all to taste.

I’ve previously posted on I M Tapas at :
http://aninsatiableappetite.blogspot.com/2008/08/im-tapas-spanish-treasure-in-naples.html
and it’s a magical bistro, with a warm, friendly staff. Executive Chef Isabel Pozzo Polo and Sous Chef Mary Shipman took time out from the fiery stoves to visit and explain the recipes and techniques.

We had a shared feast of over sixteen creations. Each person ordered a dish, and sent it around the table, so all could sample the beautifully prepared cuisine. The Napoleon de Remolacha (10), is a medley of coins of roasted beets, layered between creamy goat cheese slices, with crunchy, powerfully flavorful bits of Serrano lardons, topped with pine nuts. Try the Wild Mushroom confit's earthy bites of varied fresh warm ‘shrooms sautéed and served in a small metal cauldron for your delight. There may be black trumpets, chanterelles, oysters, enokis and various Asian rarities to tickle your palate.

The Espinacas a la Catalana- wilted spinach with pine nuts, dried cherries and a light vinaigrette, is a salad that a carnivore would appreciate.

The Racion de Jamon Ibérico de Bellota (below) is the classic prepared acorn fed Iberian ham, cut paper thin, with a succulently rich, taste. A Southwestern type touch is the Flores de Calabaza- wild zucchini blossoms filled with Capri cheese and Jamon Serrano, then flash fried in extra virgin olive oil. Roll the crisp blossoms on your tongue, then bite into the melted goat cheese, with a touch of Hawaiian or Nepali sea salt. MMMmmmm!

The fresh anchovies in garlic sauce, topped with slivered garlic, are an incredible treasure; rarely offered in the USA. A must try!You can not go wrong with the Artichoke hearts filled with Serrano Ham and Manchego cheese, then poached in a wonderful roasted garlic fume. I could dine on two orders, and be happy!The Seared Duck Breast, with Caramelized Figs, and Port Reduction (15) is my favorite, cooked medium rare, for its almost gamey rich taste, and accented by a crisp herb crust. The Oriol Vin del Aspres is a perfect accompaniment, much like a pinot noir, to play off the Port reduction and the sensual duck.

The Lubina a la Plancha is the Mediterranean dorada, or sea bream, cooked whole, then the spine and bones is removed from the two fillets, deep fried till the bones are crisp, and all served in its tender glory with warmed virgin olive oil, piquillos and chervil. Nice!Shrimp in Garlic sauce, with bits of finely chopped garlic, is a delightful order of large shrimp, cooked just enough, and served tender with the garlic heat-tempered to give its richness, rather than the sharpness of raw garlic. The Hot Pimenton-spiced Octopus, was a little over cooked, and firmer than it should have been, however the saucing was spot on. With sixteen orders from our table, and other diners tables' orders as well, I’m amazed only one dish came out cooked perhaps a minute too long. Still, every molluscan morsel was consumed. What’s life without some Hudson Valley Foie Gras, coated with a caramelized diced Granny Smith apple, with hot persimmon seeds, and enveloped in a Calvados and maples syrup reduction. If this sounds a touch too sweet for you, have the sensual seared foie gras first, then the apple and reduction next. The foie gras is almost erotic in its succulence.Gabriele, our server, is quite the cook himself, and he is knowledgeable about the finer points, and hands on alchemy, of molecular gastronomy.

The Beef Tenderloin with Cabrales bleu cheese and a chopped sweet onion confit is a great medley, served best rare or medium rare, with the trio in each bite. Adventuresome? The most amazing looking plate of the evening was the Wild Scarlet Lobsterines and scampo a la plancha, that is grilled, crustaceans that tasted like a delicate lobstser, which were opened and prepared tableside (I interrupted the process, below, for my photo.)

Delicious seared wild bonito with pomegranate sautee and pomegranate reduction is better than others' ho-hum "sushi-grade" tuna. (There's no such "grade", so beware of restaurants that offer this bogus "grade."

A delicous Spanish cheese plate with 5 selections is the finale.

Meeting other Chowhounds is a rare treat, and learning about their paths in life, and amazing twists and turns along the way, adds such a depth of knowing to the people behind the helpful postings. Our demographics-ages ran from 20’s to perhaps early 70’s, all sorts of educational backgrounds, with a wedding photographer, a food and social photographer, a registered nurse, an ex-emergency room doctor, a sommelier, and two seasoned educators. Many cook rather well, (Cuban, French, Thai, kitchen sink) and most had significant international travel experiences. Among the group, there is over 600 hours of logged SCUBA dives, from Papua New Guinea to the Caribbean. Pretty bright, colorful bunch! All are united by curiosity and passion for all sorts of foods, and the desire to both share their food and their passions through their Chowhound postings.

IM Tapas -965 Fourth Ave. N., Naples 403-8272 Open 5:30 p.m.- Tues. through Sat. (Located almost 1 block East of the Downtown NCH Hospital complex and Dairy Queen, East of 41)

IM Tapas Restaurant Review- Spanish Treasure in Naples Florida

IM Tapas is a magical place in Naples. It’s like a small European neighborhood bistro, with superb Spanish foods and Spanish wines. Executive Chef/co-owner Isabel Pozo Polo, with co-owner Mary Shipman minding the front of the house and also cooking, have little prior restaurant experience. Numerous people return here, two to three times over just a few month period, just so they can try more of the large selection and variety of tapas (over 40!). With this, and seeing the 50 seat place packed on weekend nights, they have a hit on their hands, and could well teach others about attaining success in the restaurant trade!

Isabel, Cuban born and trained in Spain, is a willowy whirling dervish, a fiery latina in almost constant angular motion. She creates the tastiest and most authentic Spanish dishes, using, for example, only the finest imported smoked Iberian hams, special beans, varied paprikas, and unique peppers. Aficionados of Spanish cuisine rave about her creations. When not at the hot stove, she may come out and chat with guests. Mary's more subtle in expressing her passion for life and cookery; a calming influence for all when the pace kicks up. Mary and Isabel; Yin and Yang personified!
A Spanish friend took us to IM Tapas. We started with the Fabada Asturiana, ($8) a wonderfully rich soup made from a 1.5” white bean, with bits of Spanish chorizo sausage, tender moist morcilla sausage, green onion, and spices. Isabel is a master at how she simmers, and marries all sorts of tastes together. I could happily make a dinner from two orders of this soup. The place filled up by 7:30 pm with a younger crowd than is usually found in Naples. After overhearing discussions of wine and the food in several languages, it was obvious that the cosmopolitan clientele included younger visitors (20’s-40’s) who clearly appreciate the fine food quality.

A Birthday Party
Our server, Trinity (below), was very helpful in both food and wine suggestions to match our preferences. We were very happy with our wine choices. We had a sweet red sangria, a drier white sangria, and a red Penaguda Tinto 2007 (11), with a wonderful berry flavor depth, lighter tannins and a rich harmony of nuances from first sniff to finish. Next time, we’ll try the TAVS Tinto 2006, for comparison. We had fun with our food pairings. If Unfiltered Unfined Wines’ wine expert Jane Delaney is around, ask for her suggestions as well. The wait staff pitches in for each other in a friendly, professional way.

Jane and Trinity, BeamingNext we had the Napoleon do Remolacha (10), a tower of thick coins of roasted beets, layered between creamy goat cheese slices, with crunchy, powerfully flavorful bits of Serrano lardons and pine nuts on the side. Good, yet overshadowed by our next two tapas.The Racion de Jamon Ibérico de Bellota (by the ounce) is the classic prepared Iberian ham, cut paper thin, with a very soft subtle taste. Try this, and use it as the standard to measure the quality of other hams. These select black pigs freely range, eating acorns and grains, to acquire the special taste. Some hams easily sell for over $90 a pound.My favorite was the D O Pimientos del Piquillo Rellenos con Bacalao ((10). Three tiny, tender beak-shaped red towers arrive with the most simple yet heavenly combination of the handpicked piquillo peppers from Spain, fire roasted, then stuffed with a melt-in-your-mouth creamy bacalao, served with a slightly spicy roasted tomato and pepper cream. If food could be erotic, then these smoky fire roasted peppers and sauce are sensually R-rated. My companion said “This is so delicate, so subtley spiced, it is perfect!” WOW! My companion’s choice was the Vieras en Cama del Pulpo (29). Clearly fresh diver scallops, seared beautifully and perfectly cooked, were drizzled with a blood orange vinaigrette using orange infused olive oil, providing a balanced tartness and sweetness. The scallops were placed on tender octopus slivers. I don’t often find “tender” and “octopus’ in the same sentence’s description, around here.
One friend had the Foie Gras special, oh-so lightly seared and tender-it was truly “to-die-for” good!

Seared Duck Breast, Caramelized Figs, Port Reduction (15)Seafood Paella

Grilled Langostinos a la Plancha-Huge 8" and tender
Carabineros a la Plancha-Norwegian Lobster-Sweeter than Maine's
Pincho Moruno-Skewer of Pork Tenderloin-Spicey (9)!We had the 5 Quesos D.O. Capricho de Mary-Mary’s whimsy of 5 high quality cheeses, served on a cheese board. This great sampling of five cheeses for $25 includes (left to right), a Tetilla-a soft brie-like cows’ cheese, three slices of firmer, mild aged Mahon, with a nice attitude, and a tall slice of Garrotxa- an artisanal goat cheese aged and cloaked in dark ashes, with a firmer, drier texture than the preceding cheeses. Then chunks of pink tinged Marjorero cheese from the Canary Islands-a firm unpasteurized goat’s cheese- from goats whose diet includes wild marjoram and oregano- salted and rubbed with paprika and peppers, yielding a buttery texture, yet with a bite, great to go with a Port wine!
The Cabarales is a rich Blue veined cheese, the equal of any from France or Great Britain. On the side of the cheese plate were a large dollop of quince paste, persimmon slices, and ginger. This is a superb selection for both savoring a variety of Spanish cheeses, and Trinity's cheese education. We complimented Trinity on the varied choice of hanging artwork adorning the light yellow walls. Turns out Isabel is the creator of nearly all if it, in such different styles, no less. Not bad for a Harvard- trained Biochemist. turned vibrant, talented Chef!

One of the foursome at the table next to us said “ This has been an exquisite evening”. A woman two tables away said she wanted “to bring her friend, a top chef in town, here on his day off”. A table of 6 said they were here because “two people said we had to try this”. People are not shy about their love for IM Tapas, and word-of-mouth has made it a success.
Bacalao Brandade Croquettes For dessert we enjoyed the Espresso Coffee Flan, with a wonderfully creamy texture, much lighter than most flans. This was accented by a tiny “windowpane” of caramelized sugar with admixed Patron Tequila coffee liquor and coffee beans; it looks like a miniature stained glass window! The Crema Catalana, a lighter crème brûlée type dessert made with cream and milk, instead of just cream, was less firm than usual; some batches aren't always perfect.
They can be slammed at the magic 7 pm dining hour on Fri or Sat nite, so come earlier or later for best service. Order your tapas to be served perhaps 10-15" apart, Spanish style, to best savor each plate.It was a truly magical evening, from start to finish, with great food and wine, and attentive service in a warm, romantic bistro-like setting. Other diners at other tables noticed our curiosity about their arriving foods, and freely shared their preferences and experiences with us and with other receptive diners-not a common happening in the USA! There are other tapas serving places in town; IM Tapas is simply on a higher plane. That’s just part of Isabel and Mary’s magic, for you to enjoy!

Debbie Laites and friend
Chefs Isabel and Mary, at Top, with Porfi and Juana

IM Tapas -965 Fourth Ave. N., Naples 403-8272 Open 5:30 p.m.- Tues. through Sat. (Located almost 1 block East of the Downtown NCH Hospital complex and Dairy Queen, East of 41)