Dolce & Salato Italian Bistro's Wonderful Wine Tastings in Naples

Naples' Dolce & Salato filled the house on October 22 with a Piedmont wine tasting, latest of the ongoing Italian regional wine tasting series.  To hear Opera Naples’ famed Italian tenor Livio Ferrari serenading a capella, as well as with a talented violinist, would be reason enough to attend!

 People from all walks of life and ages were richly rewarded with  an artistically  tasteful and culinarily divine evening.

 $20 was the ticket to savoring Italian Piedmont wines with a couple dozen different hot or cold amuse bouche and finger foods- mini appetizers to imported Gradassi  flavoured olive oils; mirlitons to colorful macaroons. 

My Sampling!

   Host and hostess Agostino Nastasi and Natascia Marchesi  were blurs of activity and friendliness, manning the wine bar, olive oil bar and refreshing the freshly-made appetizers. 

The best surprise for me? Meeting and making friends with kindred souls who also love food and wine, as we discussed  all sorts of topics that pop in our thoughts after a glass or two of Barolo or Moscato di Asti! I relished  meeting Rose, Jeannie and their companions, and also catching up with Jean,  Jerry, and Bronwen.

 And the Piedmont wines? Well, after tasting, purchased bottles and cases of Portacamaro Gavi, Barbera d’Alba, and Barbaresco Piedmont wines flew out the door! So did  Dolce & Salato’s $23 private label bottlings of  Cab, Merlot, Pinot Grigio and Chardonnay.

Dolce & Salato's Private Label Wines

 

 The wine series will continue, with each evening's selection highlighting a specific Italian wine region.

Do call and reserve for the next wine tasting’s date-spaces are limited. Arrive early for a good seat, or mingle as I happily choose to do. 

    Dolce & Salato is also my new spot for delicious sandwiches. Agostino and Natascia elevate sandwich making to an art, Italian style, of course. While orange juice from canned concentrate is alright for some; I squeeze mine from neighbor's fresh plucked oranges. Sure, you can get tasty Boar’s Head at Publix, or Costco's cold cuts in a pinch.  Discerning diners like myself, and native Italians instead happily make a beeline to Dolce for finer meats, cheeses, croissants  and baguettes-you can taste the difference!  I’ll write later of  my highly favorable experiences with their sandwiches and salads. Till then,  just go there today and enjoy the best sandwiches and salads around  at very reasonable prices-you'll be a regular too, after that. 

Superb Salame with Gorgonzola, Balsamic  and Arugula

Some of  my favorites sandwiches (with salad) are pancetta cotto with warm brie; bresaola with goat cheese; hot salame with gorgonzola, and balsamic glaze and arugula- they are delicioso! 

Now you know who’s catering my next "foodie friend" get together-that says it all!

300 Fifth Avenue South, Suite 125, Naples, 300-0444, www.Dolcesalatonaples.com

Dolce & Salato- Naples' Italian Food Boutique

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Dolce & Salato is Naples new casually upscale spot for for delicious Italian-style brunch and lunch while seated, and also for taking home the finest ingredients to cook at home.

 Co-owners, wonderful hosts and native Italians Agostino Nastasi and Natascia Marchesi have imported top Italian (and some French) products at reasonable prices, significantly upgrading the quality of some foods in town. The attractive stylish boutique is easy on the eyes, with a beautiful wooden floor, and tastefully organized

 displays. Have a hot espresso or coffee, or refreshingly cold lemonade.  Sample bite-sized mirlitons or a delicate airy meningue-like macaroon, and relax with bruschette, salad or a luscious sandwich on crisp French baguette. I’ll go for a cold Italian beer, or glass of Italian wine myself. It’s a friendly oasis for those who also want to learn more about Italian culture by chatting with Natascia or Agostino, perusing their goodly assortment of cooking and cultural magazines, and even by watching Italy’s answer to CNN and Fox; Sky TG24!

Some of  Many Magazines and Books

I’m no stranger to parts of France and Italy, and I can vouch for the freshness, authentic top quality and eye appeal of Dolce’s pastries and other baked goods. I can’t rave enough about the heavenly pear and chocolate pie, the Ricotta cheese cake’s taste and artful appearance, and the French baguette's fresh taste. The fact that Naples Italian community has made a beeline for Dolce & Salato shows that this is a magnet for lovers of delicious Italian cuisine who recognize reasonable prices.

Ricotta Cheese Cake, Chocolate and Pear Pie, and Mirlitons

Dolce & Salato has three main areas-the  fresh foods; fresh and bottled foods to take home and cook with (like high quality olive oils, pastas and all sorts of treats), and the catering arm.  All are ably handled by this pair of successful, former owners of New York City popular restaurants, who now seek Naples'  lower key pace.

For those not familiar with Naples, Dolce & Salato (Italian for Sweet and Savory) is the newest watering hole, anchoring Naples foot-friendly Fifth Avenue’s western end. Dolce is already  popular for its variety of salads, sandwiches cold cuts and cheeses that are prepared to order. This is accompanied by a goodly selection of beers, wines, coffee, espresso, and a wide variety of pastries. There are watered-down versions of espresso served in many spots. Below is my cup of espresso-this alone is worth a visit, just to know what a proper hot full-bodied espresso tastes like.  It's even better when nibbling on a fine chocolate!

  Salads run from $8 to $12, and include the caprese salad with fresh mozzarella, tomatoes, fresh basil and a balsamic reduction; a traditional Caesar salad; baby spinach with goat cheese; or Romaine lettuce with crispy bacon, gorgonzola apples and walnuts in a light honey dressing. Sandwiches are served on French baguette with mixed greens salad and chips. Try the roasted porchetta, baby spinach and Grana Padano, or Prosciutto di Parma, Mozzarella, and tomato with basil-pesto sauce. Want a quick bite-go for bruschette- hot toasted baguette slices topped with goodies like diced tomatoes, garlic, mascarpone cheese, truffle oil, roasted red peppers and roasted pancetta and shaved Pecorino Sardo for $6-$9.95.

There was no shortage of regular customers buying while I was selecting my goodies-an assortment of imported Italian cold cuts, Italian cheeses, and mixed plates of both went flying out in time for supper!

There’s quite a few Italian beers (Menabrea, LaRosa, etc), some US and other imported beers to quench your thirst, and a goodly assortment of, what else, Italian wines, available by the glass or bottle. Chianti, Amarone, Soave, Valpolicella, and Barbaresco are there for the tasting.

Speaking of wine tasting, there’s wine tastings practically every month, with hors d’oeuvres. On October 22 at 5 pm, there will be a tasting of wines from Italy’s Piedmont region, with Opera Naples' tenor Livio Ferrari and a violinist for your pleasure.

 Italy’s Gradassi infused olive oils include rosemary, orange, lemon, peperoncino, basil and my favorite, truffle oil!

 Try a bottle of caramelized sweet onions. Organic dried pasta are supplied by Naples Pasta Company, the only non-imported goodie in the store.

 I like a fresh pasta at home, and all the ingredients are here-with some easy recipes to quickly whip up something fresh and delicious. When you cook with the best ingredients, you can taste the difference. To me, life is too short to settle for second best, especially when the pricing is reasonable.

Desserts/pastries include heavenly mirlitons - walnuts; almonds and pistachio; chocolate and chocolate chip’ and almond and vanilla were the day’s offerings on my first visit. The Ricotta cheese cake is heavenly, and the pear and chocolate pie/torte  is exquisitely delicious (above). The colorful palette of bite-size macaroons are a French delight for your palate, with flavors that include citrus, chocolate, strawberry, and pistachio (below).

Imported Macaroons

Torta Rustica

 Bring these to a friend’s home, and your selections will be the hit of the evening!

300 Fifth Avenue South, Suite 125, Naples, 300-0444, www.Dolcesalatonaples.com

Sophia’s Ristorante Italiano

Sophia’s Ristorante Italiano is the best traditional-style Italian restaurant in Collier County.

      There, I’ve said it! Others will try to claim that honor on basis of their half price offerings, white linens, or “atmosphere.”  Some stuff the “Tripadvisor” sites with family and friends crowing about their hyped goodness. Nice try.  None offer the Sophia's triad of good ambiance, great food and attentive service. The clear choice of those who have dined in Italy is Sophia's, not the other well known, highly advertised Italian spots in town.

It's much of an upscale Mom and Pop family friendly place, a hidden gem, only Mom and Pop are gourmet chefs.  Owners Jay and Camille Cherr have been more than just passionate about their Italian heritage. They went to Italy to live and learn the best Italian cooking in home cooks and top chef’s kitchens! Venice, Florence, Turin and the Amalfi Coast - every place has its style. Jay and Camille graduated from Scuola Italiana Pizzaioli –that’s the top International Pizza School to you. Jay’s family hails from Sicily, so you get a southern style as well. He’s run Susie’s Diner on Marco for 15 years, and many of his customers drive up from Marco for dinner -that’s double success in my book.

Sophia’s motto is “Eat pasta, live longer”.  It may give you an extra month or decades, people’s mileage will vary.  The pasta is all homemade, daily, and it tastes better than the store-bought dried pasta. Ravioli and tortellini don’t lie. Bread is freshly baked.

 NYC’s Little Italy or Boston’s North End have their delicious Italian spots, and aficionados of these cuisines will feel at home with Sophia’s traditional Italian cooking styles.

Sophia and Jay Cherr

 Sophia has what to be proud about! Sophia Giovanna was born on August 28, 2009, and was at her namesake restaurant on day one in January, 20100! She’s often present, majestically dispensing smiles and giggles to her admirers. Sophia’s has beautiful marble  throughout, courtesy of the prior Roman Oven’s masons.  Walk around, look at the attractive decor, and peer into the kitchen. Check out the specially built pizza oven.  The kitchen was originally open to those seated at the barstools in front, however a poll clearly showed a preference for a barrier to be put up.

My Italian friends (and great cooks)  Marvin and Alexa note that the ambiance is that of a casual, comfortable neighborhood trattoria, rather than a white linen ristorante. It’s casual, friendly and family oriented. Here, tables of 8, 12 and 14 people are common, as a family comes together to share a birthday or other event. The level of service and the food style is that of a ristorante, so you get the best of both worlds. Camille, Jay and Sophia make the rounds. I really like owners who care enough to be on premises and actively interact with their diners.

 

I like to dine out with 4-6 people sharing dishes. It makes for great conversation, as plates are passed. Each person pipes up their opinion, or gives s simple tell-all grin or thumbs-up. Sophia’s is the place for this, family friendly, and people at other tables are not shy about asking what we liked!  To suit our style of dining, Jay put several dishes on each plate for our group, and it also took up less room on the table.

Sophia’s grilled calamari ($13) is delicious! It’s more unique than the fried variants that abound in town. Sophia’s also serves the fried, or fritti style. Timing is everything, a little too long at other restaurants, and you’ve got a rubbery texture. Calamari are cooked with love, with nice herbs and spices, and drizzled with a balsamic reduction. The grilling adds a fresh outdoor taste to an Italian seaside classic. The bed of fresh greens are crisp and the tomatoes have a definite flavor, unlike those at grocery stores.

Trio of Cheese Tortellini, Salmon and Pappardelle Bolognese

 Fresh Atlantic salmon is complemented with fresh garlic, artichokes and capers in a lemon-white wine sauce with touch of cooked garlic ($27). It’s cooked till just tender, and the light spicing nicely sets off the fish’s taste. It’s a good size portion, and you may take some of the salmon, mashed potatoes and vegetables home!

The pappardelle Bolognese ($21) is a hit! Fresh homemade pappardelle, the wide noodle pasta, comes with a generous portion of  Bolognese sauce’s blend of veal, beef and pork. The taste is vibrant and big- this is not your typical Italian restaurant fare A Bolognese sauce may contain various proportions of onion, tomato, celery, carrot, beef broth, thyme, red wine, and olive oil. What makes or breaks it is the sauce’s meats, and this slow cooked sauce brings it all together, in balance. Sophia’s doesn’t  overspice, or cut corners on the meat. I really like that be sauce has chunks of meat, rather than it being finely ground, giving the sauce more flavor.  This is solid very good comfort food, as you’d have it in Italy, not NYC.

The cheese tortellini, with rich four-cheese Alfredo sauce is a good starter. The hat-shaped tortellini are cooked properly al dente.

Have a glass or bottle of wine. Pricing is wallet friendly, and it’s a very good assortment of Italian wines. We loved our red Rocca Sasyr wine.

Sophia’s Caprese salad ($14) is fresh! It comes with fresh mozzarella, plum tomatoes, Prosciutto Di Parma, farfalle bow tie pasta. 

 It’s topped with extra virgin olive oil, fresh basil, roasted pignoli nuts and finished with a balsamic reduction. The pine nuts add a great taste and texture.

Each dish is a good sized portion, and the tastes are bold, not shy!

We also had a trio of  veal marsala, Milanese, and piccatta on one plate, as a taster for the individual dishes.

 

The signature veal chop Marsala is a 14 ounce center-cut milk-fed veal chop, pounded and thinly breaded, then pan fried with Italian breadcrumbs, and finished with extra virgin olive oil. Arugula and cherry tomatoes add to the feast, and the whole dish is topped with a homemade balsamic reduction sauce and served with pasta. It’s crisp, not oily. Highly recommended!

    Veal marsala’s ($27) pounded veal  is cooked with  imported Marsala wine, fresh mushrooms, sage and other herbs and spices.. Recommended!

    Veal piccata  ($26) had fresh artichokes, capers, white wine and lemon butter sauce. The sauce gives a nice slight lemony tartness, the capes a bite and slight saltiness, he way it should be done! Two thumbs up!

    Bella Sophia sole ($29) is a big seller, topped with fresh chopped plum tomatoes, fresh garlic, sautéed onions, Kalamata olives and capers sautéed in white wine sauce, finished with a balsamic reduction, served with garlic mashed potatoes and vegetable or a side of pasta.The fish is tender. A must have!

Bella Sophia Sole

Next time, we’ll try the Zuppa DiPesce Alla Sophia  ($39) with fresh main lobster tail, jumbo shrimp, clams, mussels, scungilli and calamari.Others gave it a high rating.

 Or try the veal chop parmigiana - 14 oz. center cut milk fed veal chop thinly breaded and pounded, topped with our famous marinara sauce and mozzarella cheese, is served with a side of pasta.

Leave room for desserts!

Cannoli, the Italian pastry shell filled with Ricotta cheese and chocolate chips, are topped with powdered sugar and filled just before serving. Otherwise, they get soggy.

 The cheese cake is delicious-nice and light, New Jersey style, with a rich raspberry sauce on top- take home a piece! The family recipe uses fresh imported Ricotta. Another cheese cake offers a hint of orange citrus. 

If you like tableside preparation, the cherries jubilee and bananas Foster ($22 each) are the way to go!

Tiramisu, Cheese Cake, Cannoli Desserts

 Sophia’s tiramisu is one of the best- light rather than heavy, it’s a perfect dessert.Savoiardi (lady fingers) are dipped in espresso and a hint of Kahlua, layered with mascarpone, light whipped cream and dusted with cocoa powder. The taste is terrific, top to bottom. Tiramisu doesn’t get much better than this.

I like the bright, Mexican style plate.

We like the almond cantuccini, what some call the tiny biscotti, or twice baked cookies, that are half the size of your finger. My friends love to dunk biscotti into Vin Santo, a  sweet Italian dessert wine.

Cappucino is heavenly, with a thick white milky froth.  So fresh and delicious!

 Sfogliatelle are clam-shaped pastry with many layers, and a citrus touch.

If you frequent the  two-for-one 3 course specials for $24 (including the  $3 bottle of cheap wine), this is not your place. If you want Olive Gardens cuisine, or frilly $16 martinis, this is not for you. Sophia’s portions are generous. The place is filled every night for a reason. You get high quality,delicious Italian food for a reasonable price. 

Sophia's Ristorante Italiano, 3545 Pine Ridge Road, Naples,  597-0744, Sophiasitaliano.com

Naples' Bravo! Cucina Italiana - Dining Amidst the Ruins

Bravo Cucina Italiana, "Bravo!" opened October 19 at the Naples’ Mercato. Bravo will be doing well for a long, long time. With popular sister restaurant Brio a few miles away, this, the 88th Bravo/Brio Restaurant is attractive and quite well thought out. One diner said “All the servers I’ve met are so friendly and outgoing. I just hope they can stay that way.” After talking with Manager Justin Schwartz and General Manager Christopher Prince, I’m confident guests and servers will remain happy. The Mercato is designed for foot traffic. Bravo’s broad front patio area is attractively conducive to walking, with curved grassy areas. There’s outdoor plush seats, and tables under broad umbrellas. Inside, one is quickly greeted, and escorted to the indoor/outdoor bar, or to the large central room, with white Corinthian columns supporting truncated trusses-this is “dining among the ruins”, Bravo style. The walls are golden brown stucco, faux finished, with Italian influenced artwork. Huge, 5 foot diameter hemispheric brown and white speckled Murano-styled glass ceiling fixures supply light, along with hidden high-hat fixtures Nicely placed greenery adds color and warmth. I made a beeline to the open, perhaps 60 foot long open kitchen, as waitstaff repeatedly cried “guest on the line.” The food is cooked to order. It’s a beautiful showpiece, a frenetic, controlled chaos, both where the chefs are, and where the servers and public briefly can mingle. This working kitchen is well worth a view. For everyone’s safety, have a quick look. Though billed as a “family” restaurant, it’s perfect for well behaved kids, couples and moderate sized adult parties. There’s a private room opening out on the patio. Its single table seats 10 or, better, 8.

Servers, men and women alike, have white long sleeve shirts and ties, with dark pants and aprons. Elegant. They are an unusually friendly bunch-this comes from management and filters down.
Our animated server is Michaele My table fell in love with her flowing dark hair and her attentiveness to details. Faced with refilling identical glasses-some with water, and one with soda water, she never had to ask, and correctly filled each glass.

The menu is balanced. Prices are very reasonable. Dinner starts at 4 pm for true early birds. There’s plenty of dishes to choose from. Appetizers include Fried calamari ($11), Fried Ravioli (10), Bruschetta with Mushrooms and Boursin (10), and three flatbreads. The Grilled Steak Flatbread tempts with wonderfully seasoned sliced tenderloin, grilled medium rare, served over arugula, caramelized onions, portobellos and Reggiano cheese. Highly recommended. The Caesar salad is fine for $4. I prefer the more sensual Insalata Rustica (6), with its contrasting tastes and textures. Romaine, arugula and radicchio are tossed with fresh pears, dried cherries, spicy pecans, tender grape tomatoes, and my favorite, the crunchy taste bursts of crispy pancetta. The balsamic vinaigrette is applied just right.

The other appetizer/salad star is the Wood-Grilled Salmon Salad (15). This is enough for two, or three meals for a light grazer. Crispy fried shoestring potatoes and a good portion of tender moist grilled salmon sit atop field greens, tomatoes, several grilled asparagus, and it is topped with feta cheese and balsamic vinaigrette Highly recommended.

The Pizza Napoli (12) is baked before your eyes, if you go back to the gas-fired oven. It is a classic thin crisp crust with a nice layer of Mozzarella di bufala, Provolone cheese, a light smear of tomato sauce, and finished with a bit of crushed red pepper and a basil leaf. The red pepper is the key; just enough to give some heat.

I am neutral on the Lobster & Shrimp Ravioli (19). Lobster has a delicate taste. It could cost almost double the price to have enough inside to really see and taste the lobster, whose taste is competing with the greater amount of pasta and sauce. That’s why I rarely order this dish. Bravo’s version, with ample raviolis covered with a nice tomato sherry cream sauce is as good as many other places’ versions.

The Rosemary Grilled Shrimp is a keeper at $19. Five large Gulf shrimp, marinated in rosemary and garlic then perfectly grilled, are perched on a warm bed of orzo, sautéed with spinach, Kalamata olives, onions and pine nuts, then drizzled with a warm caper vinaigrette. Recommended.

The Petit Filets and Grilled Shrimp (29) has two filets. Their quality is the equal of most steak house’s, nicely grilled and lightly charred, giving a rich aged taste. A skewered quartet of nicely grilled medium shrimp is accompanied by grilled fresh vegetables-tomatoes, broccoli, squash green beans and carrots. The tasty freshly mashed potatoes are a nicely chunky.It’s a filling meal. Recommended.

The Sautéed Crab Cakes (20) offers two crab cakes with some lumps and strands of crab meat and moist filler, served with a horseradish dressing and parsley flakes. Sides are crispy potatoes and roasted green beans with red bell pepper. If you expect Baltimore style crab cakes, this isn’t for you. It’s more on the moist side, without large lumps of crab dominating every bite. The price and good quality are in line with other spots’ crab cakes-I’m just a fan of big lumps of crab and scant filler. My type can cost almost double this. As this review is from Bravo’s first week; crab cakes and other things may be tweaked.

Already full, we shared the the Torta di Cioccolata (7) a dense chocolate cake with a warm chocolate center, topped with vanilla bean gelato. A beautifully served, delight. Highly recommended. Other dessert include Chocolate Chip Bread Pudding (6), Warm Berry Cake (6), Tiramisu (7), Cheesecake with Caramelized Sugar and Crème Anglaise (7), and Crème Brûlée (5).

Who’s s the competition? Mercato’s Italian Piola’s serves 60 pizzas in a more intimate bistro setting. Two Brothers Baci, ~ a mile north, with delicious New York Italian style, has a more casual atmosphere, and live entertainment. Each fits a different niche. Bravo! vs sister Brio? I prefer Bravo’s Mercato setting and ambiance over more crowded and noisy Waterside's Brio. Bravo’s prices seem to be less than Brio's.

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The “Mercato Experience” is a powerful magnet, a siren's call to dine, a destination unto itself. One-stop parking for shopping, dining and a movie. 250+ seat Bravo’s real competition is the larger upscale Mercato restaurants- Capital Grill, McCormick and Schmick’s and AZN. Location and table availability among the Mercato restaurants, not finer points of cuisine, may be the determining selection factor in season, when the Mercato’s nine national restaurants fill up. Such a problem for restaurants to have!

We’ll be back. To walk around the Mercato’s shops, then lunch on the patio, is a must-do in fall and in “Season”. We like Bravo's friendly staff. We gave extra plates to a nearby server who cheerfully took them away, instead of saying “I’ll tell your server”. Little touches tell all. This is just the first week. Bravo! Cucina Italiana will be one of the more successful Mercato destinations.

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#88, 9110 Strada Place, Naples, 514-0042. www.bbrg.com