Bar Tulia in Naples, Florida

Bar Tulia is a relaxing 50 seat nook on Naples 5^th Avenue South. It is a unique watering hole to enjoy lunch or dinner with a creative menu. Bar Tulia is also one of the few spots open after 11 pm in Naples, when many other dining sites are closed. (Weekend Willie’s and Alto are hopping then, too.) This self described “gastropub” is next door to its older, larger and quite successful sister, Osteria Tulia. Both restaurants are meant to be “osteria” casual. That means as if you were eating in someone’s home in Italy. Here in Naples there’s a welcome blending of  Italian style with Florida’s locally sourced fish, shellfish and produce. 

I was invited to a recent media event to sample some of the menu. I like the intimate bistro feel, with dark wood beams overhead, a beautiful wood floor with a central brick path, and matching wood tables. 

The walls are decorated with black and white photographs. The front half of the floor plan has tables and chairs, and the back part is the long white Carrera marble bar, rimmed by a dozen or so tall chairs. While seated at the bar, you may watch pizzas emerge from the oven and young bartenders' sleight of hand.

When I open a menu at most restaurants, I seek dishes that are not found on the menus at nearby restaurants. I didn’t have to look far to find evidence of Chef Vincenzo Betulia’s unique creations, such as: crisp fried pig ears; wood charred octopus; fried rabbit wings; fried veal sweetbreads with toasted waffle and maples syrup ( a riff on chicken and waffles), and braised lamb neck sugo & sheep cheese pasta. Top that for creative and unique!

Relax, there’s also a good assortment of less adventuresome dishes, too.  Chef Betulia, the former Executive Chef at Campiello,  has succeeded at creating  “a fun and laid back neighborhood hangout where guests can experience great wine, craft drinks and modern pub food late into the evening.” 

 The prices are quite reasonable, considering this is smack dab along the center of often pricey 5^th Avenue South.

We started with charred shishitos with grated foie gras ($12), which are 3 inch long sweet green peppers that are lightly blistered. 

Eat them like candy or toasted green bell peppers-there’s just no “heat” to them-I wish the dish instead used peppers with a little “heat.” We couldn’t really detect a subtle foie gras flavor.

The fried rabbit wings ($14) were a delicious treat, the quintet was nicely crisped and tender, topped with slices of pickled radish, nicely complemented by a rich Gorgonzola dipping sauce. 

Recommended.

The hogfish ceviche ($16) is a generous portion of local fish, with bits of shrimp, avocado, heirloom tomatoes, red onion and cilantro with lemon and lime juice, paired with fried pizza dough. 

Recommended.

We had a hands-down favorite-the healthy fresh cauliflower salad ($6), with crisp florets mingling with currants, Marcona almonds and scallions, topped with grated  Pecorino cheese and a light  mustard vinaigrette.

 Highly recommended.

Have a drink! With over 50 wines, craft beers, mixed drinks or the homemade Tulia Limoncello,  there’s no shortage of choices. I had a refreshing Savoy Swizzle, with two rums, Absinthe, Demerara brown sugar, Peyraud’s Bitters and muddled mint.

 There’s plenty of  traditional items too.  The rigatoni with Bolognese sauce ($10/20), grated Parmigiano cheese and flecks of fresh parsley fits the bill nicely.

There’s something almost primal about a fresh baked pizza, as fellow diners tug slices away to their plates, dripping strands of melted cheese and toppings along the way to their mouths. We loved  the Modena ($12) pizza with pancetta, house-made  ricotta cheese, Brussels sprout petals and garlic chips.

 The  Spilinga pizza’s ($12)  a treat with  N’Duja salame, cavolo nero (black leaf kale) , San Marzano tomatoes,  Mozarella and fennel pollen.

Next time, I’ll try the “Roman Ramen” with pork shoulder, shrimp ,carrots, scallion and clam-kombu broth, and the colorful sepia spaghetti with clams, smoked butter, guanciale (pork cheeks) and leeks. The grilled house sausage with stewed white beans, garlic and rosemary is perfect for a cool day.

Dine inside or outside- I prefer to people watch, especially when the weather’s cooler.

Bar Tulia

462 5th Ave. South, Naples, FL

228-7606  http://www.tulianaples.com/bar_tulia

Delicious Bites at Naples Ritz-Carlton

Some things, like fine wines and musicians Steve Uscher and Winnie Purple, just get better with time. I last reviewed Bites at the beachside Naples Ritz-Carlton Hotel in 2010, and visited a few more times since then.It's a unique setting to wow appreciative locals and guests alike.

http://aninsatiableappetite.blogspot.com/search/label/Bites%20Ritz-Carlton

    Bites is directly ahead as you enter the spacious lobby, with the tall windows on its west side. Though open to the lobby, as sunset becomes night, Bites gains intimacy and romance as the overhead light level similarly diminishes. You are promptly greeted, asked if you have a reservation, and escorted to your table or comfy couch. If you’re there before 6 pm in Season, you’ve a decent chance as a walk-in to score a spot.

My favorite entertainers are there five out of seven nights- Steve Uscher on the acoustic guitar, and Winnie Purple with velvety vocals and percussion. The pairing is a must- hear; they’ve been chosen to perform at Bites for at least 5 years. 

   Their empassioned Spanish and Brazilian  musical selections are my favorites. Music transcends languages-you don't need to know the lyrics to feel a song's emotional impact. Do reserve a spot closer to the musicians, otherwise you may strain to hear them over intermittently loud talkers.

   The menu’s thirty five offerings are bite-sized, tapas-style, with orders having odd or even numbers of items. As all but one of the tables had two or multiples of two persons, having an odd number of portions made it slightly awkward to split up the odd item.

   The wine selection of reds and whites is sufficient, with pricing by the glass from $16 to $19, and bottles ranging from $55 to ~ $150. My dining partner and I were very pleased with the smooth  $55 Sean Minor 2011 Pinot Noir Carneros. 

The house started us with two small porcelain bowls of delicious stuffed olives, and mixed nuts. 

(Alas, years ago, an accompanying wonderful selection of breads was a most welcome treat…)

   Our personable and attentive server Mary was spot on with her recommendations. She let us set the pace of the dining-leisurely- to savor the live music. We were never rushed, even though walk-ins arrived; they were happily seated a few feet just outside Bites on couches.

We started with a stellar home run;  the short rib slider ($14) is a BBQ chef’s holy grail! Oh-so tender, it truly falls apart on your tongue. 

The red wine-marinated beef’s richly savory flavor is accented by melted Tallegio cheese and caramelized onion. Nestled in a crisp sesame bun that is topped with speared pickled onion and a gherkin. This  culinary marriage of top flavors and textures has been my favorite for years. Highly recommended.

The foie gras royal ($12) comes as an elegant  trio of three brown hen eggs, their tops neatly removed, revealing a firm, cold yellow foie gras mixture, topped with a rich Port wine glaze and some diced nuts.

Yellow foie gras???  Yes, the chef mixes egg yolks with the creamed foie gras, crafting a chilled firm emulsion of pure goodness, served with crisp toast!

I wouldn’t mind if it were served a little warmer.  Recommended.

After a leisurely spell listening to Steve and Winnie, we devoured the steak and fries ($14). 

This was excellent, with six speared filet mignon bites cooked to perfection, accompanied by wonderfully crisp golden-brown fries. The porcelain bowl of Béarnaise sauce was enlivened by generous bits of fresh chopped tarragon. Highly recommended.

We were comfortably satiated, and ended the meal not with a dessert (next time!) but with an order of sambal sea bass ($12) graced with a lightly spiced chili, tomato sauce, all atop coconut rice. 

The three pieces of  perfectly cooked bass were a tender delight combined with the rice-we wish we had room to have had another order!  Highly recommended.

Desserts are $8-12, with gingerbread cup cakes, chocolate fondue, bananas cup cakes with Nutella, blueberry cobbler and orange flan. I’ll go for the chocolate fondue with mint marshmallow.

   We could not have asked for a more relaxing evening of great music in an elegant setting with a fine assortment of hot or cold tapas, er, bites. The evening was enhanced by top server Mary, who orchestrated our selections and their leisurely timing. I’ll be back again and again, as selections may change with the seasons. The popular ceviche tacos, shrimp pot stickers, tomato tartar, baked brie, and burrata with pesto are high on my list.

Competition? None, with so unique a gem. There are fine Ritz-Carleton restaurants at  both the beach and the golf properties; this is my favorite for the casual  intimate setting, delicious cuisine and fine musicians. Music lovers may enjoy a wonderful  dinner and live jazz at Alto Live Jazz Kitchen, down at Bayfront. This larger restaurant setting features superb cuisine and a stage for nationally known jazz musicians. That’s pretty much it-two places that pair creative fine food and music in Naples. It’s a start... 

 Bites, serving 5 pm to 10 pm every night. 280 Vanderbilt Beach Road, Naples, 514-6001.

The Cider Press-Naples' First "Gourmet Level" Vegan/Vegetarian Restaurant

The Cider Press Café is open!!

  The vegan food lover at the next table summed up my experience, saying, The Cider Press’s food “fills all your senses, and your taste buds never feel like they are satisfied until you have sampled all of their plates on your palate…and Cider Press's offerings cover it all!”

Executive chef/co-owner Johan Everstijn  and  sous chef Susan Bailey-Dunn craft delicious food that bursts with flavor. 

Sous Chef Susan Bailey-Dunn

  Today I was driving by, saw the sign on, popped in, and caught the Opening night by chance. I’ve been waiting since November to try their food.  I’ll be back with friends too, to try more dishes.

    Besides being delicious, all of the food is vegetarian/vegan- raw or cooked below 117 degrees F. It’s truly locally sourced when available (not so much grows locally in summer). One grower is 7 miles away-the food is harvested in the morning, and on your plate for lunch. Who else can top that for farm-to-plate freshness?  The cuisine is also free of gluten, dairy, MSG, peanuts, trans fat, sugar and tofu. Huh? Tofu-free at a vegetarian spot? Yep, some are sensitive to soy beans!  If you have a food allergy that isn’t covered by this, just put in your request, and your wishes should be met.

   The restaurant succeeds on Chef Everstijn’s promise to serve “Florida-inspired, plant-based modernist cuisine.”  Well, it also has touches of  Japan, Thailand,  Southwestern USA, the Deep South, Spain, Mexico, Peru and the Caribbean, too!

  Enter past a restored cider press from the 1800’s, and sit on one of eight  tractor seats at the bar, or go further into the minimalist décor. The Cider Press will soon seat over sixty people, have their beer and wine license, and get permitting for outdoor seating…it’s just not here on opening day. Although it is vegan friendly, there’s none of the often popular fake country kitch on the walls, tie-dye, new age music or scented fountains. The music is lively and at low volume, perfect for conversation. This is the kind of place where diners at nearby tables will smile and ask how your meal is, or recommend what they found to be great-and their recommendations are spot on.

 

    Co-owner Roland Strobel heads the front of the house, and you’d never guess this is his first restaurant. Executive Chef Everstijn was Chef de Cuisine of Matthew Kenney, OKC (Oklahoma City), the nationally acclaimed raw vegan restaurant. Now for the food.

This was an unusually cold night in Naples (at 68 degrees F, while Atlanta had snow, and  Detroit was -9 degrees F., just saying.) From the selection of English breakfast, green, lemon, orange and chamomile hot teas, I ordered the chamomile  to warm up ($2.50), realizing the teas and coffe were perhaps the only items in the house above 117 degrees F! It was satisfying with a lovely aroma and calmingly smooth taste. Looking at the tag, I was surprised it was a Lipton herbal blend; I’d expected a fancier brand, or an expensive pyramidal shaped teepee of a bag. The taste and price are both welcome. The diners at another table recommended the emerald green juice ($5),

which is a zingy refreshing mix of D’Anjou pear, celery, cucumber, parsley and a splash of lime. There’s six juices and quite a few smoothies to try, too.

Starters/apps include a ceviche of marinated abalone mushrooms, passion fruit, cilantro and aji; tomato pesto flatbread with “goat” style cashew cheese; and a delicious looking Florida roll with jicama, rice, avocado, mango cilantro and pickled ginger. The table next to mine raved about the Caesar salad, and the citrus kale salad was also recommended.

  My socks were knocked off by the rich, thick goodness of the Seminole corn chowder. It’s a  “to die for” dream, with luscious cashew cream base, sweet corn, a sprig of cilantro, and wonderful warm heat from Spain’s salmorejo soup- gazpacho’s thicker vinegar-based cousin.

This is a highly recommended, must-have cold soup that’ll stick to your ribs; corn never tasted so wonderful! (Yes, I do want to take an order home and heat it up, I love steaming hot soup in what poses as  Naples'  “winter” weather.) There is gazpacho soup too, also for $6. Any guess as to what Seminole Indians have in common with corn? 

Neighboring tables raved about the Ruskin Florida lasagna with herbed cashew ricotta ($19), the tres amigos walnut picadillo tacos with guacamole ($19); sea tangle pad thai with kelp noodles and spicy pepper-tamarind sauce (17); and chipotle enchiladas with macadamia crema fresca (19).

I am a sucker for meatloaf as comfort food, so I ordered the veggie churrasco ($22).

The plate is beautiful, with edible flowers and two sliced smoked nut and Portobello mearloaf-looking quenelles; one atop a sparkling raw vinegary chimichurri sauce, and the other on a mildly hot yellow aji pepper-pineapple salsa. Center stage is whipped garlic cauliflower puree with a hummus consistence, garnished with purple, orange and green colored cauliflower slices. While the quenelles are very good, the vibrant sauces steal the show!The sauces are thoughtfully placed below, not on the quenelles, so you can add as little or as much sauce to suit your taste.

I was full after this assortment, and not overfull-satiated is the best word-the vegan cuisine does not sit heavy as with some non plant-based proteins. I ordered, and was “over the moon” with the rich taste and texture of the vanilla “ice cream’s”  dairy-free coconut-cashew cold creamy goodness. This is highly recommended.

 Oh, why is it a Modernist restaurant? Mainly in their approach to bring out the goodness of each ingredient. They have a cryovac for sous vide techniqes, and don’t have a microwave or fryer; all  to make you uber-healthy flavorful dishes. Check out www.modernistcuisine.com/ to get an idea of what can be done. Their kitchen is wide open for all to see.

Competition? None. Loving Hut serves ok vegan food. Restaurants like Charlie Chiang’s, Seasons 52, Food and Thought, and Sunburst Café do have delicious veg-friendly dishes…no one else has  vegan “gourmet” level flavorful food like this. I’m an omnivore, and this is well worth a visit, again and again.

 Piper’s Crossing Shopping Center at 1201 Piper Blvd., #26, (East end of  the shopping strip that's on the North side of Immokalee, across from Sam’s), 631-2500, ciderpresscafe.com

Naples Cibao Restaurant Review

We arrived at Cibao Grille, sat at a table next to a large family’s dinner, and before long, they welcomed us like long lost cousins. We were not the only one's to feel so welcomed at Cibao. Being warmly welcomed by staff and by other "regular" diners; it's just part of Cibao's charm. Proprietor/owner Pedro later echoed the same, saying "Everyone who visits us (soon) feels like they are part of our family". Cibao is a North Naples hidden gem, where families come back weekly for the food, warm ambiance, and friendliness of family owners Pablo and Pamela Nolasco covering the “front of the house”, and Johnny’s Caribbean accented cookery.

It’s a neighborhood bistro, an intimate watering hole for regulars’ families and friends for having weekly dinners, rather a trendy hot spot, or one on the “let’s try that one next” list. This is not for the “half-priced special” or the “happy hour” seekers. Tourists do not stumble in here, fresh from the beach, in damp shorts and sandy sneakers. Tucked away just off 41, on the south side of Neapolitan Way, it is west of Kinko’s and east of Sunsplash, easy to miss. Don’t miss it.

The food is familiar to most Americans, with a twist-there’s a touch of Caribbean spices, Doninican Republic style, that gives a subtle pleasant change to old favorites, and to some new dishes as well. Johnny certainly mastered cuisine at St. George & Dragon before Cibao. Pedro is well known from his time at Hideaway Beach on Marco Island. When we were there, a well known Naples family had 16 members for dinner at several tables.Regulars at other tables recognized them and said “hi”. We sat at a two-top table next to them, watching three generations enjoy the food, and, after our dessert, some leaned over and said hi to us, (they didn’t want to disturb us earlier, as they thought we might have preferred an uninterrupted romantic candlelit dinner). We happily welcomed their polite overture- they were so kind to share their world with us. One said "here, it's like having dinner with friends and family" Pedro later echoed the same, saying "Everyone feels like they are part of our family".

There are a handful of appetizers-Shrimp cocktail ($12), Smoked Salmon (8), Crispy fried Artichoke hearts (7), a Caribbean black bean soup with chorizo (3.5) (highly recommended by regulars) , and Caesar Salad (7).

The Maine Lobster Ravioli, (9) (half portion- below) a Maine Lobster and Chive Filled Ravioli with a Roasted Red Pepper Crème was a delight. We said we’d share it, and when it came, they had already made it on two separate plates, each with two large, tasty ravioli, strips of peeled red pepper, and a delicious Crème sauce. You could easily taste and spot the lobster! I ordered a glass of white wine, a nice Las Brisas Sauvignon Blanc, and said I’d give my dining partner a sip (not all my dining partners drink). The wine came, split in two glasses, as well, with a few sips in my partner’s glass! We were amazed at the extra steps they took to give us separate plates, and separate glasses-we didn’t think to ask-and they did. Nice. Other shared their stories of just how attentive, considerate and caring Pablo and Pamela are, in so many little ways.

We were told the “must haves” were the Walleye Pike Key West (21), Chicken Piccata (17), and that we should also try the Scallops Neapolitay (29), Coconut Grouper (23), and Havana Pork Chop (23).

I had the Walleye Pike, a bargain at $21.

You just don’t find fresh pike in Florida too often, either! It was fresh, cooked till just tender, a good sized portion, and covered with artichoke hearts, tomato slices, and a well prepared Béarnaise sauce, with potatoes au gratin and asparagus. Each mouthful was a sensual marriage of flavors. (It really looked much better than my “candle light shot!) Unlike fish at a recently reviewed "trendy" place, Cibao cooks fish properly- the first time.

May companion had the Pan Seared Sea Scallops with Balsamic Glazed Onion, drizzled with lemon chive butter (25). The scallops were cooked just right, nicely seared to bring out the scallops’ sweet taste, and the balsamic caramelized onions, au gratin potatoes, asparagus and carrots were a very nice touch.

For dessert we looked at the Key Lime Pie (5.50), double trouble chocolate layer cake, and the New York style cheese cake, and decided to split a Caramel Flan (5.50) (half portion below). It came to the table, a half portion on each of two separate plates, with a delicious dense, firm consistency, bathed in lightly spiced caramel sauce, with piped freshly whipped cream. Flan lovers, we savored every rich bite, and were very happy with the good sized portion.

Throughout the night well chosen Spanish music played softly-some Julio Iglesia, Andrea Bocelli, Gypsy Kings, and Rocío Dúrcal.

Cibao also donates hot meals to the volunteers at the Neighborhood Health Clinic several times a year. Turns out, the doctors, nurses and other hard working staff don't have time for dinner between leaving work and arriving at the clinic, so Cibao, Aurelio’s, Brio, Campiello, Noodles Italian Café, Naples Roy’s and other fine restaurants pitch in, and feed 30 volunteers at a time. The Clinic, founded by Dr. Bill and Nancy Lascheid, takes care of Collier County’s lower income patients. It gives personalized high quality care, and charges very little, based on a very affordable sliding scale. The docs, nurses and much of the staff volunteer their many hours. Caring donors generously financially support the overhead, Naples Community Hospitals helps tremendously, and thus Naples takes care of its own.

Cibao Owners Pablo and Pamela, and Chef/Owner JohnnyCibao- First rate cooking in an intimate bistro’s caring setting. Lunch and dinner, Mon-Saturday.

Cibao Grille: 870 Neapolitan Way, Naples, (239) 434-6653

Naples Mexican Taqueria San Julian Restaurant Review

Taqueria San Julian is a welcoming Latino lighthouse, a roadside's little yellow flower, guiding taco-craving folks to Naples Bayshore Drive. On Bayshore's east side, a little further south than dining neighbors Real Macaw and Saporitos, it attracts a 90% Latino crowd of happy families with well behaved kids, couples and quartets of all ages, and welcomes newbies (you and me),as well as some well tanned Gringo-seasoned veterans. There’s the Fort Myers' Taqueria branch in the Dragon Plaza by India Palace; Both have a homey ambiance.

What’s the draw? Very good Authentic Mexican food, primarily soft tacos, at prices from the 1970’s! The décor is simple and bright.. It’s a small, one room place with tile floor, pale yellow walls, wooden chairs, and colorful serape draped tabletops, quite intimately close to one another. The handwritten menu is up on the wall by the kitchen. A USA map, some posters, an advertisement in Spanish on the counter for coaching prospective nurse assistants through their degrees (CNA), -nothing fancy here. Sit down, and wait staff sets down a trio of sauces-dark red, smoky moderately hot Chipotle-my favorite, the Hot Habanero- the lighter red sauce (bottom of the photo), and the Verde, or moderately hot green sauce. Order some tacos off the handwritten menu, by the kitchen’s counter. Have a seat, and the busy wait staff soon appear. You can order a few things at first, and a few more later-it’s fine. A taqueria, or taco specialty store, they are well respected for their stable of soft tacos, and 4-6 seems to satisfy most people. Pair ‘em with a soft drink or $3.00 Bud, Corona or Modelo beer, and take it all in. My favorite taco is their specialty, the Taco de Pastor ($1.50) below, a tasty crisp, almost BBQ’d delight of chopped pork for the same $1.50 as the Steak (Bistec), Sausage (Longaniza), Head (Cabeza), Tongue (Lengua), Beef (Suadero) and Chicken (Pollo) tacos. Tripe (Tripa) taco is $2. Your order comes piping hot to the table, with two soft tacos per order (good for sharing) a cut lime for juicing, and red radish, I recommend you add the optional offered cilantro and diced white onion topping- for this gringo they asked, rather than just putting these condiments on. Below, see my Pastor (Pork) taco (bottom of the photo), and clockwise from the lime, the tongue, steak and beef tacos.

The soft, hot tacos were the perfect handle for the tender meats, and the onion, cilantro, with a touch of Chipotle sauce, was the right spicy icing on the cake, er taco, bringing together all the tastes and textures!
Another table had a different assortment, the sausage taco is red. Tostadas de Ceviche (2.50), were next, two crisp corn tostadas bearing ceviche a Mexican or Peruvian would have been proud of, cooked in lime juice, with tomato and green and red diced peppers. Topped with freshly cut avocado slices, the crisp tostada, the acidity of the ceviche, and the creamy avocado’s texture was a combo delight on the tongue!
I’ve had menudo (6) elsewhere, and figured I’d have a bowl, or half bowl, actually, as I was pretty filled from the above selections.. The bowl (available only on weekends)arrived hot, dark red, with bits of menudo, or tripe, tenderly cooked. Few seemed to eat it “straight”, so I followed others, and added bits of the accompanying plateful (below) of diced cilantro, diced onion, green pepper, a squeeze of lime juice, and tossed in a long hot black and red pepper. Go easy on the dried oregano, or it’ll overwhelm the nice marriage of tastes in the menudo's melange. Try some menudo on one of the eight foil wrapped, steamingly hot soft tacos that come with the order. It’s a filling order, and it was the best menudo I’ve had in many years. There's a Pozole stew (9) offered Sunday evening. I had a huge lunch with drink, enough for two people, for $14.

Is Taqueria San Julian the "best" Mexican place in the area? Hmmm. It specializes and excels in tacos, and isn't a larger restaurant- like Cilantro Tamales or Maria’s-just can’t compare ‘em. The Taqueria is packed by those who appreciate well made and well priced tacos and soups. Items run out, so get there early. The parking's behind the building, on the right. I’d go back in a heart beat, while in the area, just to try more on the menu, y hablar en espanol. You don’t need to speak Spanish, the servers and some other diners are happy to help with ordering, or tell you what something is that’s on their plate. Bonus- it’s a good opportunity to try Spanglish, or practice any residual Spanish you may recall.

Taqueria San Julian 3575 Bayshore Drive, Naples 239-775-6480