The French Brasserie Rustique in Naples- A Culinary Star, and Tops at Take Out

Now’s the time to enjoy restaurant home delivery or take out, and really support your favorite restaurants when it counts!

 Vincenzo Betulia , co-partner and Executive Chef at Naples’ The French Brasserie Rustique,  prepared the most luscious Cassoulet of my life-so flavorful, so rich with concentrated flavors, and served so hot! While your humble home setting  may not have the rustic  atmosphere of  the dining room at The French, your dining room would be honored to host  such a dish.

Chef Betulia  (photo from 2019)

Some restaurants are still open for take out or pick-up, staffed by skeleton crews ( ahem!..). Some others offer delivery within a few miles distance. The French offers both options.

Naples' 5th Avenue South, looking West to the Gulf

I placed my order for this and for fish ‘n chips easily online, just a few hours before my desired pick up time. It took no time to drive down Tamiami Trail North, as I caught nearly every green light. Naples’ 5^th Avenue South looked more ready for a drag race-empty of cars. Bicycles ruled the road, along with skateboarders.  There was perhaps one car per 1-2 minutes; some came to marvel at the empty street, some to park and walk, and some to pick up  meals.

I arrived on time …only there was no “line” as people stayed in their cars, or walked within earshot of their name being called, until their order was ready, and their name was called out. Think more like 40 foot “social distancing”. 

As one approaches the take out station, there’s tape showing where to stand.  You could even call as you head down, to see if they are running early or later on your order.  Easy-peasy.  

Chef Betulia’s riff on Cassoulet de Toulouse ($38) is unique, with a plump duck thigh and leg baked till wonderfully crisp. If you like roast duck, you’ll love this presentation. 

Cassoulet de Toulouse

With just the touch of a fork’s tines, the skin shatters into flakes of avian goodness. The  overall  portion is large enough for two people. It has abundant meats;  sliced Toulouse sausage,  a shredded meat (duck rillette?) chunks of pork belly (pancetta or bacon),  garbanzo and other stewed beans, and is enriched with, onion, carrots, tomato, and herbs.  A signature dish from a top chef.  Highly Reccommended.

The Grouper “Fish & Chips” ($38)  has a crispy coating on the tender  fish; the tartar sauce is house-made.   Hmmmm…I might bring a picnic blanket and possibly find a secluded spot nearby, or bench to dine (I never said that).

Fish & Chips (there's far more chips than I placed here!)

The thin frites/ fries are also crisp at the restaurant, so don’t delay in eating them! The cole slaw is a very good side dish.

The separate box of sliced baguette, and a separate container of butter with cooked garlic and oil was an unexpected, and a very appreciated treat. I smeared the garlic butter on the slices, gave them a minute in a hot sauté pan, and had a wonderful  lightly browned toasted baguettes.

I am guessing that both orders come with the side of cole slaw, and sliced baguette with butter and baked garlic.

Other options at The French are caramelized Brussels sprouts, French-style mac & cheese, hanger steak & frites, creamy risotto, and roasted Faroe Island salmon. Desserts include The French éclair, and the baba au rhum.

You can also order batched cocktails, steaks, seafood, croissants, cheeses and fruits for one-stop shopping.

Certain wines are Buy one, Get one Free for a limited time.  Check it out!

365 5th Ave S, Naples;   (239) 315-4019,  www. thefrenchnaples.com

Grappino-Regional Italian Cuisine in Naples, Florida

Your curiosity (and Googling skills) got you this far- so make reservations for Grappino now,  then read on!

 You, may also soon rave about the veal-stuffed ravioli;  the tenderest branzino…the luscious seafood bruschetta; a heaping bowl of Tuscan seafood stew, not to mention the Meringata meringue dessert with lemon curd and raspberry preserve. Yep.  Treat yourself to lunch or dinner at Grappino, before the line’s out the door-Grappino’s food is just that delicious. (P.S.  It’s far easier to get a table at lunch, or at 5 pm for dinner!)

There's even a fireplace 

 I infrequently visit the same restaurant twice in a year- and rarely dine a second time let alone less than a week apart. Perhaps when you have lunch or dinner at Naples newest restaurant –Grappino- you too will have the same desire to quickly return to try these, or other dishes! There’s five different settings for dining-outside on the  intimate back patio with bar; 

inside at the stylish bar; or seated in front of  the adjacent charcoal and gas-fired pizza oven.

During my visits, I sat at the larger open dining room,  as well as at the more intimate small dining room with its plush chairs and smaller round tables-ideal for couples or trios.

The two dining rooms are separated by the partially glass-enclosed central kitchen.

The décor is simple and whimsical. The central kitchen is cleverly housed in a white wood-beamed cottage set within the glass-walled modern building.  Wide light brown wood plank floors add to the homey warmth. Wine and grappa bottles line one wall in the smaller dining room.  Murano colored glass balloons float high over the beautiful wooden tables.

Savvy diners may spot a real live mermaid.

Timeless, the previous restaurant at this stylish, welcoming setting, closed suddenly in June. Ingrid  Aielli, and her husband and Chef, Venice, Italy native Fabrizio Aielli, already co-owners of three of Naples’ highly regarded, and quite different restaurants- Sea Salt, Barbatella, and Dorona- took over the Timeless just months ago. They crafted a warm Italian trattoria setting, paired with a fitting casual  menu, that lets you try various Italian regional specialties. The pricing is quite reasonable for the quality and service.

Grappino  Co-owner Chef Fabrizio Aielli

This is as “Mom and Pop” as it gets with meals prepared from scratch.  Ingrid is “front of house” and Chef  Fabrizio ,and  Executive Chef Jason Goddard, are initially at the helm in the open kitchen.  Chef Fabrizio uses flavorful  garden-fresh herbs and local produce when possible. If you look carefully in the front window, you’ll see his house-made grappa infusions-they’ll be ready to drink in a month!

Chef Jason Goddard and Chef Fabrizio Aielli 

After talking separately to my dentist, a community leader, a lawyer, and especially  strangers  at adjacent tables at Grappino over the last week, I’d venture that 10% of the diners are there for their second time-and Grappino’s  been open less for barely two weeks. The word of mouth network works fast!

The staff’s warmth, knowledge and attention to small details is apparent, from your first being greeted, being given sage advice (if requested) on choosing dishes from the menu, through the changing of silverware and plates when appropriate, with folding of napkins when you leave your seat. I noticed that someone even took time to cut heirloom carrots into six, and seven sided football-shaped forms (tournée cut)!  I’ve appreciated the menu and wine suggestions from Eva, and then from  Damajna on my two visits; others have similar praise for their server/guides.

There’s many food, wine, and grappa choices! The menu has seven sections. Nearly all items are priced and portioned for sharing or sampling. There are but five more typical entrees (plus daily specials).  That’s a good thing for you-it encourages flexibility in sampling a variety of appetizers or small pizzas, instead of filling up on one main entree.

First, Cold Cuts. There are currently seven different thin sliced cuts paired with their region of origin: Prosciutto (di Parma); Culatello (Emiliano); Speck (Tirolese);  Mortadella (Bologna);  Salame Felino (Baganza Valley); Sopressata (Veneto); and Bresola (Valtellina).  Each portion is served with a  ramekin of a uniquely Italian  mixed dried fruit-mustard preserve (mostarda di  Cremona) , along with varied olives, mild green peppers, a rosemary twig, and grilled bread triangles.

Speck

I tried the Prosciutto ($16) , and the Speck ($12), and both are of the highest quality. Recommended.

Prosciutto di Parma

Next are Cheeses, with at least six offered ($9-12) ; Parmigiano Reggiano (Emilia); Pecorino Toscano (Firenza); Gorgonzola (Italy); Caciovavallo (Puglia); Burrata (local); and Buffalo Mozzarella (Campagna.) Your choice!

The Bruschetta selections ($9-14)  are luscious-don’t even think of comparing these large offerings to “bruschetta” you’ve had elsewhere!  Any of these bruschettas would be  a meal for a light eater, and the pricing would be much higher elsewhere.  I rave about the $14 Alta Marea’s crab, several shrimps, and ample pieces of Maine lobster, with a light olive oil and balsamic dressing. Highly Recommended!

Alta Marea Seafood Bruschetta

 The Campagnola Bruschetta’s ($9) grilled eggplant, zucchini, peppers, caramelized onions and Greek yogurt is addictive. Adding the yoghurt makes this “over the top” luscious.  Highly  Recommended.

Just one piece of the Campagnola Bruschetta

Fritto means crispy, and the Calamari, broccoletti with provola, bell peppers is lightly fried, and served with  a side of ratatouille aioli ($14). This is much lighter, crispier and flavorful than what you’ll find at other restaurants. Highly Recommended.

Calamari Fritto

Over a dozen Pastas can be ordered separate from, then combined with over a dozen sauces, so there’s almost 150 combinations. We liked the al dente spaghettini ($9) combined with the amatriciana’s rich pancetta, onions and tomatoes ($8).  

Spaghettini with amatriciana sauce

Perhaps  the real star of Grappino's pasta world is the large and generously veal-stuffed ravioli pillows ($12)-WOW! We paired it with the roast chicken, green peas and Parmesan cream sauce ($10). I could  have that combo again, and again. Highly recommended.

Veal stuffed ravioli with roast chicken Parmesan sauce

Pizza is crafted Roman-style rather than thin crust Neapolitan- style, so it has a crisp outer crust, and thicker underlying dough/crust with a light texture. There are three sizes- to serve 1, 2-3, or 4-5 persons. It’s fun to to try three different styles small pizzas, instead of just one big one. We had the ($9) Zucchini and zucchini flowers, burrata cheese, and mint without tomato sauce- it’s a full meal for one person.

Zucchini and zucchini flowers, burrata cheese small pizza

There’s 20 different rectangle pan pizza’s to try, half are with tomato sauce, and half are Bianca-without tomato sauce. Recommended.

Ah yes, the grappa! There’s over 100 different grappas ($12-40/ounce)  to try.  I favored the Jacobo Poli Miele, a honey-flavored mild grappa. The Nardini Riserva, or the Jacobo Poli Pere (pear) are good and feistier grappas.  I’m eyeing some others to try on my next visit!

Grappa started as Italian “moonshine” and some varieties offer that raw kick for traditionalists.

There’s dozens of milder grappas to start with at Grappino. Grappa “sommelier” Barry is great at suggesting ones for you to savor.

Favor wine? There are generous pours for $8-14 by the glass, and about 100 reds and whites offered, from  Italian Pinot Grigio to big and bold Super Tuscans (my choice), Barolo, and Amarones,  too. Perhaps sip a Purple Hands Pinot Noir from the Willamette Valley, or a Paul Hobbs California Chardonnay. There’s a full bar, too.

I’ve savored three of the five mains, or entrees.  The Beef Brasato ($34) offers large cuts of savory slow-braised Wagyu beef, simmered in Barolo wine.  Wagyu is THE tops in beef marbling and flavor-it’s not the usual choice, select or even prime USDA grades found in other restaurants). The braise is enriched by bok choy, potatoes, carrots, and other root vegetables.  I appreciated that some of the orange, red, and purple heirloom carrots were painstakingly cut into six, or even seven sided oblongs-a typically French haute cuisine feature! This is a carnivore’s comfort food! Recommended.

Beef Brasato

 You’ve perhaps had Branzino elsewhere. This boneless whole branzino ($42) may well be THE best you’ve had-it was the best I've ever had. The whole fish is baked in white wine with capers, olives, cherry tomatoes and broccolini. Your branzino is first presented whole at table side. It then goes back to the kitchen to be filleted, and returned to your plate.  It’s so tender, so flavorful, and truly worth the price. Highly Recommended!

Branzino before fileting and serving 

Seafood lovers will also enjoy the Cacciucco- a classic Tuscan seafood stew. This large bowl of tomato-based rich comfort food is amply filled with calamari, mussels, snapper, monkfish and octopus ($36). Its complex flavor comes from slow cooking, with hints of garlic, aniseed, various peppers, parsley, thyme, and bay leaves. It’s similar to a French bouillabaisse, Greek kakavia, or San Franciscan cioppino. Highly Recommended.

Tuscan seafood stew

Save room for desserts.  We were “over the moon” with Meringata ($9)-the Italian meringue  atop lemon curd, with a dollop of raspberry preserve. Highly recommended.

Meringata dessert

Chocaholics will swoon over the generous profiteroles ($9), topped with Gianduja chocolate sauce-it’s a traditional mix of chocolate and roasted hazelnuts, that fits between dark chocolate and milk chocolate. Highly Recommended! 

Profiteroles with Gianduja chocolate

There’s also Tiramisu with Amaretto cookies with Bailey’s liquor, and a daily selection or biscotti or pastry.

Yes, we took home some portions, and noted the boxes to be recyclable, not plastic or Styrofoam containers. Thank you.

Grappino has its own niche in Naples-its nicely differentiated by its location and offerings from Sea Salt, Dorona, Barbatella and other fine Italian/Mediterranean spots.

90 9th St N, Naples,  Hours: 11:20 a.m.- 10 p.m., Monday –Saturday, closed Sunday. Happy hour 3-6 PM. Phone: (239) 331-432,  https://grappinonaples.com/
https://www.facebook.com/GrappinoNaples/

Chez Guy Parisian Bistro

In a nutshell, come dine at Chez Guy Parisian Bistro this month (October) for the two-for-one entrée special-you will be very glad you did! What are we talking? $64 of exquisite French entrees  for $32?   It’s well worth it!

Chez Guy ‘s chef/owner Guy Minet is a familiar chef to Neapolitans, as he ran the successful French American Bistro (FAB) for years on Immokalee Road.  Parking is ample.

When you enter, Chef Guy will generally come to greet you with a smile and a “Bonjour!” The setting is little changed from the previous Coastal Peruvian Restaurant occupying this site, with clean lines in an open dining room, accented by a few paintings, cobalt blue water glasses and white linen tablecloths.

Yessy, our server, quickly came to the table with cold water, fresh baked bread, spreadably cool butter and olive tapenade. She was very helpful, and her suggestions were spot on for what we sought.  There’s a small selection of wines by the glass for $10-12/glass, and a variety of wines by the bottle.

We shared the scallops Parisienne appetizer ($14). The lightly crisped white sauce-typically with white wine, milk,  bread crumbs, Swiss cheese and mushrooms is “heavenly,” and the translucent sweet scallops and shrimp, topped with a crescent of puff pastry, are delectable. Recommended.

Lane snapper ($32)  is a must have fish, and Chef Guy’s Provençal preparation is a piscine delight.  White wine and fish broth, red , and yellow cherry tomatoes, capers, olives, shallots, and herbs. Melt in one’s mouth perfection. Highly recommended.

The half roasted duck l’orange is a French classic, lovingly prepared with candied orange rind, Grand Marnier liquor, piped mashed fingerling potatoes and a side of crisp green beans. Crisp,  non-fatty skin, flesh cooked medium-it’s more than enough for some folks to eat.  Recommended.

Other entrées include Black Grouper Madagascar, rosemary roasted chicken, duck confit, hanger tender steak a la bordelaise, veal tenderloin, salmon, and filet mignon au poivre. I’ve got my eye on the cassoulet for the next visit.

We didn’t have room for dessert!

Chef Guy’s culinary talents just get better and better. Our meal was leisurely served, extra sliced baguette bread was brought, and service was attentive. My only “complaint” was that we were told in advance that a mere 15% tip was placed on the bill, based on the “original” price of the two entrees- I felt that at least a 20% tip was in order, and added cash to the check to show my delight.

5447 Airport Road North,  Naples, FL.,   239-431-5824, https://www.chezguynaples.com/

Closed Sunday and Monday, with lunch and dinner on Tuesday-Saturday.

Lemongrass Vietnamese Bistro in Naples

This is a “preliminary experience, as Lemongrass is in “soft opening" mode. It’s great deal for you-20% off everything through Sept 28.

Lemongrass Vietnamese Bistro  is s a good thing that’s gonna get better.  It’s in the same Galleria Shoppes site as AsianGo!Go!, only with even better tasting food and completely  different owners.  Right now, the menu is compact and sufficient, and will expand in time. 

The setting is calm and simple, with a long area by the counter, and a wider, more open area facing the back patio, and dining al fresco as well.

 The owners previously ran a restaurant in California, so it’s not their first rodeo.

Now, they are starting with a menu of 7 apps, 7 pho’s, and 6 vermicelli rice noodle bowls, plus banh mi sandwiches. The appetizers are Grandma's egg rolls, spring rolls, lemongrass tofu, vegetarian egg rolls, chicken dumplings, popcorn chicken, and calamari.

Shrimp spring rolls

We started with an order of the $5.95 shrimp spring rolls, which are large, fresh, filling and a delight, with the rice noodle wrap containing ample shrimp. There’s lettuce, and a hint of mint and perhaps cilantro. The peanut satay sauce is quite good, not spicy, so one can add plenty of heat, if desired. Recommended.

We shared a Caphe Sua Da (Vietnamese coffee, $4.50) with boba "bubbles" and milk. It’s a goodly portion, and appropriately sweet. The boba tapioca balls are sucked up from the bottom via a wide straw. It’s the real deal.

Pho (so hard to correctly pronounce, like” fuuh”, not “foe,”) is basically a meaty clear consommé –style broth made from beef bones, ginger , charred onion and spices like star anise and cinnamon with delicate white rice flour noodles. Some make the broth with chicken instead of beef.

 You, the diner, then add and mix in some or all of the adjacent plate of Thai basil leaves,  lime wedge, mild jalapeno chili peppers, cilantro, and bean sprouts. You may add fish sauce or hoisin sauce. Lemongrass’s pho has a delicate good broth that’s not as “meaty,” or rich as some broth that I've savored.

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Try the broth alone, first, and see if it’s to your liking-your mileage may vary. We had perfectly cooked shrimp in ours (meats, not shrimp are traditionally added).  For your pho protein, you can choose from flank steak, brisket, chicken, tofu, rare steak and even meatballs . At $8.95 for a regular bowl, $10.95 for a large bowl, you will have plenty to eat! Recommended.

Vermicelli rice noodles with grilled pork

My favorite was the vermicelli noodles with grilled pork (10.95.) The portion is large, and the tender pork is wonderfully prepared with a lemongrass marinade, sliced, and then placed atop green onions, carrots, ground peanuts, lemongrass, cucumber, and other veggies.

Tossed

Add the mild fish sauce, or hoisin sauce, toss it with the underlying rice noodles, and you’re in for a delight. There’s also beef, chicken, shrimp, tofu and egg roll as choices. Highly recommended.

The man at the next table ordered the popcorn chicken, and was highly pleased, saying, “We’ll be back to try more!”

There’s an assortment of non-alcoholic beverages-sodas, teas (jasmine, black, coconut milk and taro milk) , juices (apples, orange, cranberry)  and bottled waters.

I look forward to returning as the menu expands, to "make" my own banh mi sandwich, and try other appetizers and the rice platters. It’s easy on the wallet. Very generous portions are served-prepare to take some home. Try it and see!

8970 Fontana del Sol Way, Suite #6 (next to Real Seafood), Naples 734-3769. 

Website pending. Open for Lunch and Dinner.