Café Normandie Naples Review

Café Normandie is The French Deli, renamed; it’s now serving dinner as well as lunch. Owner Benoit Legris changed the name last year. It really is a full, bisto sized restaurant, and now a great dinner bargain.

There’s often a lunch time waiting line. The Café was packed as we entered Friday at 7:30 pm, and perched at our tiny table along the wall, on slightly awkward stools, happy to have squeaked in. Waiter Jeremy warmly greeted us, and took our wine order, for an “ok” house pinot noir ($8), and a better sauvignon blanc (8). We took in the cheerful yellow walls, very low lighting, paintings of French scenes, and a local artist’s works for sale. A central display case highlights the desserts. The noise level is moderate to high. There’s not much room between tables, so suck it in. That’s the price of being in a popular bistro, Naples Style. The average age was perhaps 70, with a 30’s couple, and some octogenarians. That’s Naples style, too. We were seated, soon ordered at 7:30, and our appetizer came 50 minutes later, at 8:20. We were famished, and devoured the three Smoked Salmon Petit Fours ($4.50). The slightly soggy flake pastries have tender smoked salmon, spinach, melted Swiss cheese, and warm béchamel sauce on the side. Tender baby spinach leaves with chopped onion and tomato fill the rest of the plate. "This could be a lunch", my partner said. For $4.50, it’s a very good, and tasty deal. The neutral béchamel gives a nicely understated moisture and contrast to the rich mouth feel of the petit fours. For the same $4.50, there’s a ham, tomato and Swiss, or a beef, fresh mushroom and Brie petit four as well. Or have Escargot de Bourgogne, for $6, or Foie Gras slices with salad and toasts for $13. Complimentary fairly freshly baked, then sliced baguettes, and tiny plastic cups of butter are a nice touch. Unfortunately we (hungrily) ate too many slices during our wait for food.

"The Dance", Henri Matisse The Hermitage, on loan to

There are only 5 entrees at dinner, ranging from $15 to $18 each. That's no typo! Similar offerings would be $25-28 on Naples 5th Ave South, and perhaps $28-34 at pricey Cote d’Azur, without better quality than served here. That’s pricing, Café Normandie Style. After a 35+” wait, charismatic Jeremy arrived with our entrees, and apologized for the too long wait, saying they expected only 25, and had over 70 for dinner, running out of what we first ordered, the Sea Bass a la Normande (18). We enjoyed the Canard aux Pêches (18), a filling and tender half duck, with crispy skin. Accompanying are scalloped potatoes au gratin, and a ratatouille style, too highly spiced vegetable mix with carrots and zuchini, that, if eaten first, overwhelmed the delicate duck and its light peach sauce. Not a problem, just eat them after the duck.

The Shrimp and Sea Scallops au Gratin is another winner, with a good half dozen large diver scallops and as many small shrimps, perfectly cooked, within a béchamel -tomato sauce, topped with melted Swiss cheese, and toasted bread crumbs. Sides were tomato-basil rice and the (too spicy) mixed vegetables. A generous and very tasty portion for $16! This is French comfort food, not haute cuisine, so adjust your expectations, and be quite pleased at the price/quality/quantity. There’s also Roasted Chicken with creamy Dijon sauce (15), and Boeuf Bourgjugnon (16).

We filled up on bread, and had no room for desserts. I’d previously had the Tarte Tatin for lunch; this upside down apple and caramel delight is served with a scoop of vanilla ice cream (5.50).

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Several Portions of Tarte Tatin, Waiting to be Cut.

There’s also crème brûlée (5), hot crepes with choice of sugar, Nutella, or jam (5.50), and Danish (2.25).

The next night, Saturday, we drove along 5th Ave South at 7 pm, and saw plenty of empty tables at Vergina’s and Trilogy, with many people walking past. And yes, casual Café Normandie, and nearby, popular upscale casual Escargot 41, were both full. We’ll return to Café Normandie to try the other entrees. It's been a while since we had dinner and wine for under $60. I’m sure more waitstaff will be hired; the long waits should stop. Why did I mention the patrons ages? This is an affordable spot for “date night”, ideal for those, also in their 20’s-30’s, to enjoy. Bon Appétit.

3756 US 41, Tamiami Trail North, Naples (just south of Office Max, the former Rooms to Go’s original location), 261-0877.

Bleu Provence Restaurant French Cuisine in Naples

Jacques and Lysielle Cariot opened Bleu Provence in 1999, a block from the city Dock, and have gradually expanded the restaurant’s size, without compromising its character.

Bleu Provence has a year round special “Decouverte” discount menu from 5-6 pm that draws in the crowds, in the otherwise hard to fill Happy Hour time. For $21.95, you get a choice of one item from the soup, salad and appetizer page (Column A), then one Main dish (Column B) , and a glass of house red or white wine. It’s easy to tell, the select items are marked with an Eiffel Tower!

You enter Bleu Provence via the tranquil side porch setting around the left as you face the front- best enjoyed in season’s coolness, however I’ll take it just fine in the summer’s heat with a short sleeve shirt, and an overhead fan, to avoid the crowds. The building’s exterior is a washed light blue and white tropical quaint look, with areca palms enclosing the side patio, and lazy fans stirring the air. Side Entrance
. The interior continues this color scheme, with washed blue walls and white wainscoting, white linen tablecloths and dark blue napkins.
“Column A” includes a choice of: Provençal Fish Soup with Rouille and Croutons, French Onion Soup, Various Salads, Traditional Escargot in parsley butter, Smoked Salmon, and Pan-Grilled Mussels.

We chose the Tomato Salad with Marinated Goat Cheese, Basil, and Virgin Olive oil, with a light vinaigrette drizzled over the basil pesto topped tomato slices. Fresh, clean tastes-great way to start!
Then a bowlful of Pan-Grilled Mussels with olive oil, Garlic and Parsley. The mussels were plump, as tender as could be. We had Cabernet Sauvignon, with good tannins, and a nice finish, to go with our main dishes, certainly a cut above may house wines. Our waiter, François, was very helpful, and at several times, owner Jacques delivered dishes, to keep service just right. The Swordfish Special had a ~5 ounce tender filet served atop a grilled eggplant slice, with roasted vegetables, asparagus spears, and green and black olives. The flavor was enhanced by fennel, onions, olive oil and Provencal spices.
The Provençal Beef Daube, cooked in Red Wine Sauce, served with Mashed Potatoes, had generous hunks of cubed, braised beef. Rather than being a thick rich Provençal stew, as in many restaurants I’ve sampled, where a spoon would almost stand up, this had a more watery or soup like rich broth surrounding the mound of beef, sliced carrots and translucent onions. Just another tasty variation to sample. The mashed potatoes had a bit of French Emmenthaler cheese mixed with the potatoes, a welcome, gooey touch.
The portions, served hot, were sufficient to fill us, and we had to try a dessert! Though dessert is not on the special menu price, we looked over Warm Chocolate Cake ($9.50), Crème Brulee (7.50), Tarte Tatin (8.50), 3 scoops of Sorbet (7.50), Crèpe Suzette au Grand Marnier (8.50), and Cherry Soup with Vanilla Ice Cream (6.50). We chose the Tarte Tartin, and while it was tasty with its slightly firm apple wedges coated with a touch of honey and lavender, it lacked the traditional thick caramel topping we anticipated. The honey-lavender ice cream is a treat.

A little history... The Tarte Tatin was accidentally created at the Hotel Tatin in Lamotte-Beuvron, France in 1889, and is known as La tarte des Demoiselles Tatin, or the Tatin Spinsters' Apple Tart. Stéphanie, sister of Caroline Tatin, is said to have forgotten to put the pastry in the skillet first, before adding the apple quarters to caramelize, so she topped the mistake with pastry and served to accolades, and the rest is history!
When the tatin is traditionally baked, unlike the Bleu Provence creation, the apples (Gala ,Golden Delicious or the like) are first caramelized with butter and sugar in a skillet for about 20”, a crust added on top and baked in an oven till crust is browned. Then the skillet is inverted, and the dessert is served with thick caramel side on top. Oh, well, call it by another name, just not tarte tatin, or add the true thick caramel-either way, and we’re happy!

The side porchWhile my French friends note that their favorite classical French restaurant in South Florida, let alone Naples, is Escargot 41, (which never has Happy Hour specials, alas), Bleu Provence is tasty, and hard to beat for these wonderful year round specials-and the Provençal food is just as enjoyable after 6 pm, as well.

Bleu Provence 1234 8th St S Naples, FL (239) 261-8239

French Cuisine at Escargot 41 Naples, Florida

We were just plain lucky! We got a precious 6:30 pm Friday reservation, only two weeks in advance, for one of the fourteen tables at Naples-Fort Myers’ premier French restaurant, Escargot 41. Though housed in a small shopping center between Fresh Market and Kmart on the North Trail, the cars outside ranged from a Honda Accord to the newest Bentley, carrying their diners from Miami, Fort Myers, and even Ontario, Canada.
We entering across the red and gold carpet, were warmly greeted by Hostess-Owner Jackie, and escorted to our lace covered table. The décor is subdued, with attractive oil paintings on the walls. The beautiful colorful charger plates with a sea life motif set the tone for a piscatorial evening. Vaida was our highly competent server, and very helpfully suggested wines to accompany the appetizers, entrées and desserts.

We started with a Kir Royal ($7), a French Merlot (6.75) and French Chardonnay (6.45). The prices were easily half that of drinks at other restaurants in town, and the wine was a good 5 or 6 oz pour, again, larger than at nearly all other restaurants. The extensive and modestly priced wine list received the coveted Best of Award of Excellence from Wine Spectator Magazine.

Repeat patrons greeted Jackie with hugs, and visited other diners they spotted, across the room. This is clearly a local treasure. Few spandex-clad tourists will be walkins at this word-of-mouth delight. There's a several week wait for a Saturday night 7 pm spot. So far, there's been no need to advertise, or entice with 2-for-1 specials. While there's no formal dress code, the dress was still nice casual at 6:30, then as the later seatings arrived, dress tended toward jacket and tie for men.

An amuse bouche soon appeared; a delicate pale green asparagus soup served in the tiniest of demitasse cups-I only wished it was a regular soup offering; so creamy and rich, yet made without cream or milk. The hot French bread had a crisp crust and wonderfully light interior, and the unsalted butter was of the finest quality. Corners are not cut on quality or quantity.
We ordered one of Chef-Owner Patrick's superb appetizer creations, the evening's special; Escargot Champignon, with very large tender escargot, mushroom duxelles, tiny gnocchi, a delicious creamy sauce, and topped with a rich melted cheese (14).

Escargot Champignon
The French onion soup (6.95) was all you could ask for, and every drop of the rich broth and melted cheese topping quickly disappeared!

French Onion Soup

I’ve had fresh Pompano in Florida over forty times, and Vaida said this evening’s special version was delicious. Sautéed in butter, topped with sliced crispy almonds( (29), she was right! This was THE best Pompano I’d ever had, truly tender and moist beyond words! It was served on a heated beautiful plate, with a tower of white rice, and slightly crisp green beans bound in a hollowed zucchini round. The green beans were cooked in a delicately flavored broth; there was a subtle taste we couldn’t quite identify. An artfully piped dark crepe and a yellow edged sprig of tart green basil completed the plating. One table of New York regulars said it was every bit as good as Le Bernardin's fish. Chef Patrick prepares the pompano and the yellowtail snapper better than at any restaurant we've sampled in Florida, and we've tried many versions over the years.

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Sautéed Pompano with Slivered Almonds

We also tried the Medallions of Veal, tender, served with apples and a Calvados based sauce. Also a winner! My guest said "I've never had veal as tender and as flavorful as this, everywhere elso it's mushy or too firm". Entree's are very reasonably priced, starting at $17.95, and most are in the $20's. My guest also admired the fine China, naming which hand painted Royal Doulton pattern was before us, and named the antique English tea cup and saucer gracing another table.

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Medallions of Veal with Apples and Calvados

We were certainly well fed, with quite ample portions, a serving size not common at other French restaurants. Continuing the apple motif, we tried the apple tart à la mode (8.75) served in an individual low ramekin, with a flaky light puff pastry crust, and savored some of the finest caramelized apples we had in years. The vanilla ice cream, with a solid green sprig of mint, was a perfect counterpoint to the hot tart’s delicate spicing.

Apple Tart, Fresh Mint and Vanilla Ice Cream
Other regulars recommended the raspberry soufflé (11.25), and it is worth waiting for. A delicate cloudlike tower of egg whites, majestically rising well above the ramekin's rim; it is accented by the tartness of the fresh raspberry sauce within. A silver server holds ample additional sauce at the ready. Unlike other restaurants during "the season", we are never rushed, and the service was attentive and leisurely.

Raspberry Soufflé
Fine China for Tea
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Cote d'Azur in Naples, Florida

Naples' Cote d'Azur has Provence-style French food in a pleasant homey atmosphere within, despite being in a Publix anchored strip mall on the NE corner of Immokalee and US41. One is greeted and seated in the long narrow restaurant with its charming décor. White PVC columns support yellow and white striped awnings over the booths. The tables are decorated with yellow and orange tablecloths-I prefer a booth. The blue walls are accented by mirrored “windows” for a nice touch. Most visitors choose to eat inside, passing on having a symphony of clattering shopping carts and parking lot noises.
We started on complimentary bread and a nicely balanced balsamic vinegar/oil/spice mixture-a tasty treat. There are 6 salads for those on diets, and other appetizers include Mussels Marinieres, Crabcake, and Fried Calamari.

The entreès are smaller and, unnecessarily for the diner, more expensive than at the more popular French restaurants in Naples (i.e. Bamboo Café, Chardonnay or Escargot 41; Bleu Provence's prices are still overall less.). The, ahem, "cheapest"- is the $28 chicken breast, with ALL the other entrées well up in the $30's. Most specials are over $40. Increased prices sadly do not parallel any obvious increase in quality over the other restaurants.

Comparable restaurants from Naples to Fort Myers have most entrees around $19-29. Do ask the price of the specials before ordering, or you will have quite a surprise later. Try Veal Scalopinne or (lollipop) Lambchops for $35, or Beef Ribeye or Filet Mignon for $36, or Veal Chop for $37. We enjoyed the Roasted Lobster in Clay Pot with Root Vegetables ($36) (photo below) and the lollipop Lamb Chops with Rosemary, Thyme, and a Pinot Noir Reduction ($35)(photo below). Wine by the glass starts at $9, with most cocktails at $15. Share a bottle? There are a dozen white wines starting at $36 per bottle, 39 reds starting at $36, and 4 champagnes starting at $120. Ouch. Bring you own special bottle? Corkage fee is $35.

Desserts include Poached Pear, Poached Fig, Crème Brulee, and two Sorbets. We shared a Chocolate Truffle Cake, and found it lusciously oozing with rich chocolate sauce.

Midwesterners seem to prefer Cote d'Azur's cuisine and sauces. Native French and Northeasterners prefer the other places I named. Let price, location and your tastebuds guide you, and I believe you'll be satisfied at this, or at most of the other French restaurants.

Cote d'Azur- 11224 Tamiami Trail North, Naples, 239-597-8867.

Booths

Lamb Chops
Roasted Lobster in Clay Pot

Chardonnay Nouveau Naples Florida

Chardonnay Restaurant is "back in business" in Naples; after a year of closed doors, reborn as "Chardonnay Nouveau". There's new décor and a trim menu that ‘s half old and half, well... Nouveau! SEE ADDENDUM AT BOTTOM.

Customers were warmly greeted on opening night, September 17,2007 , by Executive VP Diana Shapiro and Manager Ryan Bradley, and were pleasantly surprised by the changes. I’d always dined with jacket at Chardonnay Restaurant over the past 15 years, sat in the same stuffy oversized ornate chairs, and while the menu never changed, the service and food quality did fall a bit during the last year it was open under prior Manager Rene's helm. It closed for a year. That's now history.

There's more than an attractive facelift here, besides the refurbishing and the name change, and it’s a most welcome change. The décor is sharper, smarter and more open, with fewer tables and more room to walk. There are 3 dining rooms and a bar area, and my room had tasteful beige walls, light wood accents, and a maroon carpet with a gold filigree design. John Coltrane’s jazz gently played, and diners could talk at a normal level. The oversized chairs have been replaced by sleek taupe or red chairs. Before, when seated, I felt claustrophobic in an overdone French retirement home, now the attractive sleek décor, space between tables and dropping the mandatory jacket rule attracts a much more diverse clientele.

Lee, our server, a Sommelier and a CIA trained chef, had a professional demeanor and suggestions that were spot on. I enjoyed the peachy light taste of a French Bellini ($10) as an aperitif, and started with the lobster bisque ($9), Nouveau style, with the creamy bisque topped with chunks of lobster tail and lemon zest, to give a distinct new citrus accent.

Other diners favored Exec Chef Claude Chauvin's Tandoori Tuna Tataki ($13), with fried Ahi tuna and a lemongrass ginger sauce over a cucumber julienne. Lee recommended a glass of Faively Burgogne ($9), a Cote de Beune burgundy, as a welcome counterpoint for my Classique Veal Duet ($33). The veal tenderloin was tender, perfectly cooked medium rare, and was lightly seared on top and bottom. The veal sweetbreads were prepared classic style, lightly floured and pan sautéd to create a rich balance of textures and tastes. The veal duet was paired with a delicate morel mushroom sauce, that let the duet properly steal the show. These were plated on a Villeroy and Boch white dish with artfully placed asparagus sections and a quartet of haricot vert. The piped sweet potatoes and a mound of spaghetti squash were subtle and unobtrusive. A savory signature dish.

Other diners were happy with the NY Strip au Poivre ($39) and the “Cowboy” Ribeye ($48) with its creamy gorgonzola bordelaise sauce. Dover Sole ($35) seems like it will be a signature dish, at a very good pricepoint. The Grilled Sea Bass ($30) was a nicely plated and properly cooked large portion, accented by black olives, fresh tomato, capers, sweet orange and white wine butter sauce. One couple recommended the Maine Lobster Ragout ($36), simmered in a Riesling wine sauce with mushrooms, dill, cucumber and gnocchi. The Mignonette of Beef Madagascar ($29), a trio of 3 oz. filet of beef , sautéed with shallots, brandy and a green peppercorn sauce, got thumbs up.

I’ve had two birthdays over the years at Chardonnay, topped off with their Classique Chocolate or Grand Marnier Soufflé. Keeping in the Nouveau spirit, I selected the new Raspberry Soufflé ($12) in its traditional white ramekin. It's generous serving of raspberry sauce on the side was properly just a touch tart. The Grand Marnier Soufflé may be the favorite-your call. One may choose from other desserts: a classique Crème Brulee, NY Style cheesecake, Hot Apple Tart, Key Lime Pie, or Chocolate Decadence Cake with white and dark Bailey’s Crème, paired with a Crème Anglaise.

Do leave a comment with your impression of Chardonnay Nouveau below.

Bread Basket

Veal Duet

Grilled Sea Bass

Hot Apple Tart
Chocolate and Fruit
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ADDENDUM May 10, 2008
Chef Claude Chauvin has left Chardonnay Nouveau after many years of service. The new Executive Chef, Mark Guilbault, also owns Dinners by Design, a popular catering company in town. I've tried his cooking at Chardonnay, and it's a seamless change for diners at Chardonnay. Chef Greg Shapiro also cooks at Chardonnay, and he is well regarded for his catering service, Tastebuds of Naples. I look forward to a new menu evolving soon, from their repertoir.
Manager Chris Sliter is no longer with Chardonnay.

Chardonnay Nouveau- 2331 Tamiami Trail North, Naples (239) 261-3111