Showing posts with label Sweet Melissa's. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Sweet Melissa's. Show all posts

Monday, June 29, 2009

Sweet Melissa's Sanibel Restaurant Review

Sweet Melissa’s delights are apparent even before you enter. Arrive a few minutes early, and admire their beautiful butterfly gardens. I counted over a dozen different butterflies in a few minutes, and the floral bait, er, bounty is worth a look!

We ate at Sweet Melissa’s original site, where Pamela said, “It’s just like eating in a Chef’s own home.” The new location, right on Periwinkle, Sanibel’s main drag, is, for visitors, about 1.2 miles up from the bridge, and on the left. The restaurant is ~three times the size of the original tiny spot. Cute and homey have become casual elegance.

Former owner Gaye Levine, who passed away 2 years ago on May 22, would be happy and proud of Sweet Melissa’s butterfly-like metamorphosis.
Executive Chef Melissa Talmadge is very talented, and pretty much every dish she puts out is a keeper. Assisted by seasoned chef Mike Walnic, formerly at Toro, this duo is perfectionistic about putting out meals that make regulars out of first timers.

One of the best concepts they have is offering half sized portions of entrées for half price, only the portions are more than half! This is one of the best bargains in town-easy on the wallet, and it lets you try more entrees.

The floor plan is open; you can peek over the counter and see the chefs at the stoves. The restaurant’s décor is relaxing, with autumnal colors- golden brown walls, and tan tiled floor, with nicely padded wooden chairs, linen table cloths, and linen napkins. Melissa does it with style. A cozy full bar is to the right, as you enter. There’s plenty of seating indoors and on the screened in patio. People come dressed “nicer casual”, and fit right in-this is Sanibel. Think vacation. While it’s not for the wet bathing suit set, a man with a tie or jacket and his companions would feel right at home.
Wine pairings come in half glass and full glass portions, allowing you to try perhaps twice the wines you might have originally ordered. I like to have one wine for fish, another for meats and stews, so this really makes it easy, and the pricing is very good. There’s a nice mix of wines. The list is well thought out, and the markup is reasonable. Portions are generous-even a half portion is enough for most eaters. Our server, Chris, knows each dish's ingredients, (a former cook?) and is very good at wine pairing. He really makes for a wonderful evening’s experience

There are five salads-Grilled Romaine (9), Hearts of Palm (10), Grilled Octopus (12), Baby mixed Greens (9) and a Cheese Plate (14). The Watermelon salad is Melissa’s seasonal signature dish- with olives, spiced pecans and hazelnuts, finished with a champagne vinaigrette Refreshingly crisp, and naturally sweet. Recommended.

Warm bread slices, a dish of herbed olive oil, and slices of lemon and lime appear on the white tablecloth.

.An amuse bouche soon followed. It has a Duck empanada, red wine braised scallops. There is a separate drizzle of pickled-cherry demi glace and micro greens. The empanada is served hot, with “to die for” crisp pastry perfection, enclosing nicely spiced lean duck. The diver scallops are perfectly cooked. This wonderful trio sets the dining scene.
We went for the special Grilled Romaine Lettuce, wine, It’s delicious-the grilling really makes a difference when done right. The blue cheese dressing complements it nicely, it, and sprinkled hard cheese tops it off perfectly. It pairs nicely with a half glass of 2004 Nora Albarino Spanish white wine (5), served in a beautiful tulip-shaped glass.

There’s a Vegetable Tian for $8, with eggplant, zucchini, squash, tomato and a basil pesto.

The Grilled Octopus salad (12) has pleasing contrasts. The properly cooked mollusk’s curved arms cross on the plate, tender, with nice grilled accent. The green salad, with pine nuts and red pepper is tasty, and lets the octopus stand out.

Tuna Carpaccio (13) is perfectly cooked, with a delicate Chinese five spice crust. The bed of julienned cucumber and daikon radish adds a nice crispiness and touch of tartness. Each tuna medallion is bedecked with flecks of sea salt. Microgreen sprigs and black sesame seeds, with two sauces, make an attractive presentation.

The Gulf Fish Stew is ordered as a half order (12.50), and is as large as any full portion elsewhere, for $25-30! The properly cooked assortment of fresh fish, scallops, littleneck clams, and mussels are in a tasty tomato- saffron broth, with a drizzle of Pernod on top. The full portion may be too much for one person! A proper fish stew is all too easy for a chef to overcook some parts-not these chefs! Highly Recommended!

The Seared Arctic Char special is perched on black rice, with a pool of coconut curry. This special-half plate is enough for a full portion, and the black rice is great!

Crispy Sweetbreads, (14) are the richest tasting item on the menu, so have this toward the end of your sampling I like the wide pasta. The nicely cooked sweetbreads do lose their crispness in the sauce, so one might have sauce on half the serving, or on the side.

My Brown Sugar-Glazed Pork Belly is delicious – hot n tender, with a nice brown sauce on top, and slightly sweet red cabbage below. It’s a full portion, and pork’s versatility and the chef’s expertise shine here! The rich pork belly goes great with the Australian Torbreck Woodcutter’s Shiraz.

The Grilled Mahi Mahi is a favorite, served with banana, lentils and rhubarb gastrique. Others liked their Beef Tar Tar (15), with horseradish cream and pickled red onion. The Seared Scallops (14), with cherry tomatoes, black-eyed peas, corn and a bacon vinaigrette are highly recommended by guests, who say, “Even if you don’t like scallops, you’ll love these!”

The Grilled Shrimp and Grits (12) has three tender nicely grilled shrimp, perched on authentic, slightly coarse real grits, not the mushy instant grits served elsewhere; thickened with goat cheese. There’s a delicious peach-jalapeno salsa and a bourbon-molasses drizzle to bring it all together-the peaches are a surprise treat.

There’s no shortage of nicely priced desserts-they are each just $7, and well worth it! The seven items we were offered are: Trio of Pot de Crème, chocolate torte with Coconut Crème Anglaise; Frozen Mixed Berries with warm White Chocolate Ganache;. Lemon Tart, Banana Pecan Strudel with Caramel Gelato; Buttermilk Panna Cotta with Strawberry soup and Pistachio Brittle; and various Sorbets and Gelatos. We went for the Strawberry, Coconut, and the Grapefruit-Rosemary Sorbet Trio-Delicious! Our Chocolate, Vanilla and Butterscotch Pot de Crème trio is colorful. We like the butterscotch best, and the spoons are pastry! One of our party liked his Banana Pecan Strudel; it did not survive the journey past several desert forks to reach my fork- a good sign!

There is also a Caramel Gelato, Chocolate gelato with maple brown sugar, and all desserts are made from scratch by Melissa. There’s a good selection of dessert wines-my favorite is the Pineau de Charentes, a little known French aperitif with a touch of cognac brandy, full and sweet. The California Meeker’s Fro-Zin, is close behind.

Sweet Melissa’s portions are huge for the prices, and this it top quality food and service. Best deal on Sanibel, and one of my Top Five Restaurants in the Fort Myers area. All items are under $30. To get a huge half portion of this delicious cuisine for $14, it just can’t be beat! Everything is cooked from scratch. The freshness shines forth, like a butterfly from its chrysalis. Highly recommended.

1625 Periwinkle Way, Sanibel, 472-1956

Sunday, July 6, 2008

Sweet Melissa's Cafe, AKA Redfish Blufish Cafe on Sanibel

*****NOTE***
THE ORIGINAL SITE, AND REVIEW OF SWEET MELISSA'S IS BELOW. SWEET MELISSA'S HAS SINCE MOVED, AND ITS NEW REVIEW IS POSTED ON JUNE 29, 2009.*****

“ It’s just like eating in a Chef'’s own home”, Pamela said, of Sweet Melissa’s Cafe. We had just enjoyed our appetizers, while perched on our window- side seats, looking out on a vivid double rainbow.
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You could say the same, too, especially while sitting at one of Sweet Melissa’s four wooden chairs directly in front of the wide open kitchen, chatting with friendly Executive Chef Melissa Talmage and staff during a lull in service. Relax, and take in the tropical setting-it’s is as homey as you could ask for, while dining out. It is a warm open setting for the food's subtle sophistication. Yes, relax, savoring the orange-red walls, tile floors, linen table cloths and the luscious tropical greenery filling the window views. We were very happy that we made the journey from Naples to Sanibel, to share in Sweet Melissa's friendly atmosphere. The menu has three parts; Course I, II, and III. The appetizer portions of “Course I and Course II” are an ample size. The entrée’s of “Course III” are listed as being both “half portions” in price and in size, and can certainly be doubled, if desired. We, and other diners preferred the offered portion sizes, as it allows one to sample twice as many entrees for the same price, when compared to similar restaurants. This “European portioning” runs counter to the American meal concept of “super-sizing”. The change is welcome, and easy on the aistline.

It was raining as we arrived; the usual 20 minute summer afternoon downpour. A vibrant double rainbow shone over Melissa’s for a long time, a very good sign from above! We turned from the window, to plan our preferences for appetizers and wine with Server and Wine Steward Marlana Kennedy, who suggested starting with the Watermelon Salad ($9). The salad's mouth sized bites of Mozzarella and Watermelon balls, were sprinkled with Spiced Pecan bits, to offset the fruit’s sweetness, with all arrayed on mandoline Sliced Cucumber Ribbons. A delicate Champagne Vinaigrette dressing offered the right touch of crisp, yet slight acidity. “It’s so creative and beautiful”, Pamela said, noting how the salty small Kalamata Olives complemented the sweet watermelon, in nearly every bite.

Chef Melissa’s inspiration for the combination? Her daughter, Olivia, put the watermelon, Mozzarella and olives together, and Chef Melissa did the rest! Marlana chose the Honig Sauvignon Blanc to perfectly complement this and our next few seafood dishes, and we were very happy with its light, crisp taste.
The Big-Eye Tuna Tar Tar (12) is a succulent tower of chunks of tender tuna, admixed with tartly sweet White Grapefruit for contrast, with Candied Fennel, and crisp Toasted Hazelnuts, topped with crunchy Frizzled Red Beets, and encircled on the plate with a light Ancho chili Oil. "Delicate and tender" I said. We couldn't think of adding anything to it, without disrupting the rich chords of flavor.
We watched Sous Chef John Plantefaber behind the low kitchen counter, assembling his portion of this and other dishes, and his deft knife skills would be inspirational to any would be chef.
Executive Chef Melissa is superbly trained, a graduate of the French Culinary Institute in NYC. She studied under Kitchen Gods Jacques Pepin, Andre Soltner and Alain Sailhac, then first worked at noted Union Square Café. From 2001 to Hurrican Katrina ‘s arrival in 2004, Chef Melissa sharpened her skills at New Orleans' Commander’s Palace, focusing on seafood, then moved to Black Salt, Washington DC’s 2003 New Best Restaurant of the Year. Jazz Musician and restauranteur Gaye Levine then recruited her in 2007 to Redfish Blufish, also owned by artistic entrepreneur Bridgit Stone. Gaye passed away a year ago, and Melissa has stayed on, operating Redfish as one of the two finest restaurants on Sanibel Island. Melissa has concentrated on bringing out the complex flavors of Southwest Florida’s expansive bounty of seasonal local produce and truly fresh seafood. With the name change from Redfish Blufish to Sweet Melissa’s, and the new menu, we couldn’t resist a Fourth of July weekend visit.

The Roasted Grouper (15) is perfectly cooked. Pan seared to develop a tasty crust on both sides, then oven roasted, it is then topped with an ethereally light disk of Shrimp Rum Butter. This is nestled next to the delicately scented Coconut rice, with its admixed crisp English Green Peas. Chef Melissa has elevated Grouper to its tender best.

If you haven’t been a prior fan of grouper when sampled at lesser restaurants, it’s time to try Grouper at is best, at Melissa’s. I could have ordered three portions, it was so good! Oops, time for some ‘splainin, as Luci Arnaz (Ball) would say.
Pamela and I eat like birds, all right. She is the Hummingbird, and I have the Vulturean Insatiable Appetite! Pamela said of our dishes, “The size of the portions are perfect; you can dine with an appetizer and a main course, and feel just right!” I, El Gordito, agree.

Weekend visitors Colin Heard and Erica Hamilton of Fort Lauderdale, sat at the next window- side table, and mentioned they "Googled" Sanibel to find the "Best Sanibel Restaurant". Their research indicated Sweet Redfish Blufish as the "Best" a while ago, and they have been repeat visitors to Redfish/Melissa’s.
They raved about the Ceviche Trio (14), whose generous portions of seafood changes daily, accompanied by a crunchy tostone style plantain.
Erica loved the Seared Mahi Mahi (14), a generous portion of fresh fish, served over a Banana and Creamy Lentil Salad, with a Tamarind Broth. Erica said, “So many different favors that match, in every bite” I can’t find such fine quality culinary creations anywhere else in the USA or Europe, for just $14.
Chef Melissa came over during a brief lull in the kitchen, and shared that some of her favorite cookbook authors include Julia Child for the French basics, Alice Waters for her simplicity and magical treatment of local produce, Eric Ripert of Le Bernardin in NYC, Suzanne Goins, of Sunday Suppers at Lucques, and Nuevo Latino Cuisine Chef Douglas Rodriguez.of Miami’s Yuca and more recently of Patria’s in NYC.
We had the Grilled Hanger Steak (16) for our finale. If you order this, perhaps start with the plate's delicate Yellow Tomato Puree, then sample the Pan seared side of sweet Cipollini Onions and crisp sliced Fingerling Potatoes with Thyme. Mmmm good! Now go for a bite of just the Grilled Hanger Steak, without the other goodies.

Savor its richness. Now combine a morsel of steak with the steak’s topping of Salsa Verde’s parsley, capers, anchovies, lemon, olive oil and salt and pepper. It’s the best! At $16 for this tasty portion, or a double portion at $32, it just can't be beat. I’ve searched restaurants and butcher shops for the elusive Hanger Steak, and was delighted to have found a great one at Melissa’s. First cousin to a skirt steak, and richer in taste, it is best served rare or medium rare. Marlane paired the steak with a rich Seghesio Sonoma Zinfandel, a wonderful marriage with the rich beef, that couldn’t have been better.

Tastings of small portions of varied appetizers and/or entrees can be arranged, as one regular enjoys ordering different creations, on a weekly basis..

Chef Melissa continues a great tradition with Sweet Melissa’s, offering innovative tasty food, beautifully presented, and at prices that are easy on the wallet. This is a a totally different concept from the 250 seater restaurants, certainly much quieter than say Bubble Room and other tourist watering spots on Sanibel. Like Colin and Erica, we’ll be back for the comfortable atmosphere, friendly prices, and excellent food.
Sweet Melissa's Cafe( formerly Redfish Blufish Cafe), 1625 Periwinkle Way, 472-1956