Wednesday, January 28, 2009

MiraMare Naples Florida Review

An angel must sit on Sal Sinsieri's shoulder, letting him get this beautiful restaurant site, and the permitting done on schedule. MiraMare, Italian for “looking at the water”, has just opened at the site of former Marie-Michelle’s at Naples’ Venetian Village, on Venetian Bay. The view is breathtakingly beautiful by day, magical and romantic by night. Enter via MiraMare's colorful arch, and relax and smile during your meal, savoring the waterside setting. Have a drink at the open windowed bar. Don’t let your jaw drop at the expansive Venetian Bay view. Have a seat by the water (first come, first served.) As I write this, snow and blizzards have shut off power to almost a million folks “up North”. Pelicans and small white boats are happily bobbing on Venetian Bay.

Owners Sal Sinzieri, former managing partner at Naples 5th Ave Bice, and wife Alyce, have created an elegantly Northern Italy style restaurant, complete with very friendly and helpful Italian and European wait staff, Italian chefs, cooks, and even an Italian wood burning pizza oven.
Marie-Michelle wearied of running her eponymous restaurant for years, and closed. Sal and Alyce are gung-ho enthusiastic. Their attention to detail shows, from the menus to the fresh attractively plated food.

The key to any restaurant is the chef, and Chef Giovanni Scamardella, who hails from Naples, Italy, is no stranger to Naples, Florida. He opened Vergina on 5th Ave South, Naples Tomato, and opened Bice on 5th Ave South, where he met Sal. His welcome cooking style is elegantly simple, cooking primarily fresh seafood to order, with a northern Italian/Mediterranean style. He also braises a mean osso buco special.

Local competition? Nah! Cloyds seems like a 1973 time capsule; Bayside; and M Waterfront Grille. None share the northern Italian niche.

The dinner appetizers include Crispy fried calamari and vegetables, served with a spicy tomato marinara sauce ($12).
The, Tuna tartar (16) is delicious, with greens, red onions and capers. There’s four salads, from a mixed salad for $7, to a baby spinach salad with green apple, almonds and goat cheese for $10. If they offer the special rich Butternut squash soup with crispy bacon and Ricotta cheese- it’s a must have! The lunch time Octopus salad (12), is wonderful, with tender baby octopus, celery, olives, tomatoes, capers potatoes and a lemon dressing.

The first course menu dinner items include seven pasta dishes, ranging from plain Penne pasta with spicy tomato sauce (14), up to Spaghetti with Maine lobster (20). The special of Butternut squash ravioli in a butter and sage sauce, topped with amaretto cookie dust, is delightful.

Entrée favorites include Sauteed tender veal scaloppini (26) with lemon and capers, or the pounded Chicken breast (16) with mozzarella and tomato sauce. There’s the NY grilled steak with arugula and mashed potatoes for $30 as the priciest on the menu- not pricey in this town! Seafood lovers may try the Pan seared salmon (22), Seared ahi tuna for 26, and the Mixed seafood soup (19). As a special, Chef Scamardella cooks the Chilean sea bass on sautéed spinach, to perfection.We enjoyed the light Tiramisu, (6) the perfect dessert to top off a magical evening on Venetian Bay.

This is a slam dunk success for owners and patrons alike. The prices are very reasonable for the quantity and quality of the food, and the view, especially at night, just can not be beat. The service is attentive. Corkage fee is $15 per bottle, ranging from $8 to 20 elsewhere. I enjoyed their wines. I see a long and prosperous time for MiraMare Ristorante, as Napoli, Italy visits Naples, Florida.
Sal (3rd from Left) and Alyse (2nd from Right) Sinzieri
MiraMare Ristorante, 4236 Gulf Shore Blvd, Naples, Fl 430-6273

Shannon Yates' Mad Take-Out Takes Fort Myers by Storm!

Shannon Yates is on a roll. Mad Take-Out (MTO) is his latest culinary success, and a brilliant idea, shared with its Executive Chef, Ruth Cohen. He’s stayed within ½ mile of Cru, which he transformed, during the 2004-7 housing market bubble, into arguably the must sought after spot in Lee County. (Cru closed in Dec., after he, and subsequent chefs, left.) He then resurrected Bacchus (briefly Toro) in the Bell Tower shops, which is packed with his loyal followers. Now, with Mad Take-out's volume, just a few weeks after opening, he’s got another success, and it doesn’t even have a chair or table to sit at.

In the diminutive Pinebrook Plaza, north of Bell Tower, north of Cantina Laredo, and east of Outback, they have created a sparkling clean, well organized catering size kitchen with more than ample room to prepare a cocooning couple’s take-out dinner,a family's lunch, or a party of 300’s multi course catered event. Not a problem.

Step inside-you’re greeted by friendly people. Look at the menu’s over 80 possibilities. (compare that to moribund Cru’s meager twelve offerings). The Mad take-Out concept is simple. Veteran caterer Ruth Cohen is meticulous about using truly fresh ingredients. All is made on site. For example, starting with the pizza dough, from spelt flour instead of regular wheat flour. Spelt is a tasty, healthy cousin of wheat. I ordered the $18 16” Spaniard pizza, with spelt crust, mozzarella, Spanish chorizo slices, shrimp and red pepper. The crust was rolled out, in front of me, sauced, and slid in the
huge Garland pizza oven. In no time it was boxed, and I shared it with other pizza lovers who said “this crust is really good-who makes it?” There's 7 basic pizzas, and over 24 topping choices. I also sampled the earthy yet light hummus, the properly made tabbouleh, and savored the large, bright green fresh, meaty Ceringola olives. Don’t like salty olives? Well, these meaty fresh babies “have your name” on them, and just one can make you lust for more. My partner loved the Ultimate Veggie wrap sandwich, with avocado, tomato, alfalfa sprouts, Swiss cheese and Vegenaise on green Ezekiel bread, and it's not even St. Paddy's Day. Very lush and very filling for only $5.25. There’s five spring rolls, with the signature “Krazy roll’s” surimi crab, cream cheese, to-chi sauce and teriyaki glaze. The best! We took a Hamachi and scallion sushi roll ($7.25) from the cooler, and the yellowtail is fresh as could be. There’s also hot sandwiches, oven roasted chicken, various past dishes and over a dozen salads. MTO has food for lactose diets, high protein diets, Celiac diets. The salads come in small, medium, and family sizes. The sandwiches are good sized. A popular sandwich features tasty red tomatoes, mozzarella cheese and homemade olive tapenade on a thick bread roll. Dig in. There's a big cooler with other goodies.
Got picky kidz? Entice them with chicken fingers, hot dogs, fried mac ‘n cheese, grilled cheese, PBJ, little pizzas and even tater tots.

Best part? You can order from your home computer, by cell phone, fax, or send smoke signals- your order will be ready and waiting. I’m just psyched, happy it's opened, and amazed at how smoothly everything runs. I just don't have time to cook. This makes take- out far easier than grocery shopping and cooking. The enjoyable quality, price and quantity makes it a slam dunk.

Kick back with one of over 20 soft drinks, a dozen red wines and as many nice white wines, in full bottle, with some half sized “splits”.

Have a sweet tooth? The Tate’s Bake Shops’ Chocolate Chip Cookies are to die for! Light and crisp, they're a healthy pleasure. Ditto for the Sweet Olive Oil Tortas. These thin round crisp, lightly oiled 5” wheat “flat breads”, eight to a box, are lightly dusted with sugar and anise seed. Savor as dessert, or serve 'em with cheese, jam, coffee or tea. The smoked salmon is tops! One mini-Godiva Chocolate cheesecake will satisfy a sweet tooth, and not add to the waistline.Finding these goodies is why I, like the others in the shop with me, will come back, again and again. Ruth and Shannon have healthy foods, be they familiar as mac ‘n cheese or mildly exotic as spelt crust pizza. Their creations are made with love, reasonably priced, and gourmet quality. It tastes that way, or Ruth wouldn’t let you put it on your table. Fast, friendly take-out service. Fresh, healthy food. What better nourishment than this, to enjoy in your home?

Mad Take-Out, Pinebrook Plaza, 12995 S. Cleveland Ave just north of the Bell Tower Shops, 693-TOGO, or madtakeout.com
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*******ADDENDUM 5/25/09******
Shannon Yates is no longer associated with Mad Takeout or with Bacchus. According to Manager Cyndie Doragh, Shannon recently split, amicably, and he is off for a well needed rest in Europe. Shannon didn't respond to my emails.
He's creative and successful at whatever cuisine he creates. I wouldn't be surprised if he moves to Naples or to another city, with a greater audience for his finer cuisines. Madtakeout's high quality should continue, with able Ruth Cohen still at the helm.
*****ADDENDUM 2/17/2012***
Shannon didn't move, he went back to Cru for a while to work with Chef Harold Balink till a noncompete clause period was over, and left.  Bacchus folded without Shannon.
He then  started and ran Lush for about a year, until 12/31/2011, when it was sold to a group of restauranteurs. Acrimonious words and complaints flowed between all thereafter, and it was renamed Stillwater Grille.   
And yes, Mad Takeout did not last long without Shannon.
Next?

Saturday, January 24, 2009

Chowhound Chowdown at IM Tapas Naples

The stars and planets aligned just right. Naples' I M Tapas restaurant was the epicenter, as a dozen chowhounds converged, and most met for the first time. RevrendAndy and MrsRev put out the word Jan 3rd, and handled the logistics, as Chowhounds from Chicago, Lake Tahoe, North Carolina, Italy, Bonita Springs and Naples Florida met. We unknowingly formed a culinary "critical mass", for a treasured evening with warm friends and great food.

The restaurant was in awe as RevrendAndy and MrsRev regally entered as if on a red carpet, TomOHaver and Chef Mary were warmly welcomed, as the group greeted each other as if long lost friends. The distinguished JohnB and Janet brought cool weather with them.Two published food writers and the other Chowhounds soon joined.
As TomOHaver so aptly stated on Chowhound.com's IM Tapas thread, “Chef/owner Isabel Pozo Polo and her partner and staff have created just about the most perfect small restaurant you can imagine: delightful intimate atmosphere, out-of-the-way location, wonderful food and service, and very reasonable prices. It does not get much better than this." Fortunately the chowhounds are into sharing and comparing, so many fine plates were passed around the table, for all to taste.

I’ve previously posted on I M Tapas at :
http://aninsatiableappetite.blogspot.com/2008/08/im-tapas-spanish-treasure-in-naples.html
and it’s a magical bistro, with a warm, friendly staff. Executive Chef Isabel Pozzo Polo and Sous Chef Mary Shipman took time out from the fiery stoves to visit and explain the recipes and techniques.

We had a shared feast of over sixteen creations. Each person ordered a dish, and sent it around the table, so all could sample the beautifully prepared cuisine. The Napoleon de Remolacha (10), is a medley of coins of roasted beets, layered between creamy goat cheese slices, with crunchy, powerfully flavorful bits of Serrano lardons, topped with pine nuts. Try the Wild Mushroom confit's earthy bites of varied fresh warm ‘shrooms sautéed and served in a small metal cauldron for your delight. There may be black trumpets, chanterelles, oysters, enokis and various Asian rarities to tickle your palate.
The Espinacas a la Catalana- wilted spinach with pine nuts, dried cherries and a light vinaigrette, is a salad that a carnivore would appreciate.
The Racion de Jamon Ibérico de Bellota (below) is the classic prepared acorn fed Iberian ham, cut paper thin, with a succulently rich, taste. A Southwestern type touch is the Flores de Calabaza- wild zucchini blossoms filled with Capri cheese and Jamon Serrano, then flash fried in extra virgin olive oil. Roll the crisp blossoms on your tongue, then bite into the melted goat cheese, with a touch of Hawaiian or Nepali sea salt. MMMmmmm!
The fresh anchovies in garlic sauce, topped with slivered garlic, are an incredible treasure; rarely offered in the USA. A must try!You can not go wrong with the Artichoke hearts filled with Serrano Ham and Manchego cheese, then poached in a wonderful roasted garlic fume. I could dine on two orders, and be happy!The Seared Duck Breast, with Caramelized Figs, and Port Reduction (15) is my favorite, cooked medium rare, for its almost gamey rich taste, and accented by a crisp herb crust. The Oriol Vin del Aspres is a perfect accompaniment, much like a pinot noir, to play off the Port reduction and the sensual duck.
The Lubina a la Plancha is the Mediterranean dorada, or sea bream, cooked whole, then the spine and bones is removed from the two fillets, deep fried till the bones are crisp, and all served in its tender glory with warmed virgin olive oil, piquillos and chervil. Nice!Shrimp in Garlic sauce, with bits of finely chopped garlic, is a delightful order of large shrimp, cooked just enough, and served tender with the garlic heat-tempered to give its richness, rather than the sharpness of raw garlic. The Hot Pimenton-spiced Octopus, was a little over cooked, and firmer than it should have been, however the saucing was spot on. With sixteen orders from our table, and other diners tables' orders as well, I’m amazed only one dish came out cooked perhaps a minute too long. Still, every molluscan morsel was consumed. What’s life without some Hudson Valley Foie Gras, coated with a caramelized diced Granny Smith apple, with hot persimmon seeds, and enveloped in a Calvados and maples syrup reduction. If this sounds a touch too sweet for you, have the sensual seared foie gras first, then the apple and reduction next. The foie gras is almost erotic in its succulence.Gabriele, our server, is quite the cook himself, and he is knowledgeable about the finer points, and hands on alchemy, of molecular gastronomy.

The Beef Tenderloin with Cabrales bleu cheese and a chopped sweet onion confit is a great medley, served best rare or medium rare, with the trio in each bite. Adventuresome? The most amazing looking plate of the evening was the Wild Scarlet Lobsterines and scampo a la plancha, that is grilled, crustaceans that tasted like a delicate lobstser, which were opened and prepared tableside (I interrupted the process, below, for my photo.)
Delicious seared wild bonito with pomegranate sautee and pomegranate reduction is better than others' ho-hum "sushi-grade" tuna. (There's no such "grade", so beware of restaurants that offer this bogus "grade."
A delicous Spanish cheese plate with 5 selections is the finale.
Meeting other Chowhounds is a rare treat, and learning about their paths in life, and amazing twists and turns along the way, adds such a depth of knowing to the people behind the helpful postings. Our demographics-ages ran from 20’s to perhaps early 70’s, all sorts of educational backgrounds, with a wedding photographer, a food and social photographer, a registered nurse, an ex-emergency room doctor, a sommelier, and two seasoned educators. Many cook rather well, (Cuban, French, Thai, kitchen sink) and most had significant international travel experiences. Among the group, there is over 600 hours of logged SCUBA dives, from Papua New Guinea to the Caribbean. Pretty bright, colorful bunch! All are united by curiosity and passion for all sorts of foods, and the desire to both share their food and their passions through their Chowhound postings.

IM Tapas -965 Fourth Ave. N., Naples 403-8272 Open 5:30 p.m.- Tues. through Sat. (Located almost 1 block East of the Downtown NCH Hospital complex and Dairy Queen, East of 41)

Sunday, January 18, 2009

Golden Leaf Chinese - Naples Review

Golden Leaf is the newest Chinese restaurant in town, and their fast service and tasty food brought back nostalgic feelings. As a kid, my family had a favorite Chinese restaurant we visited every month, even though it was 15 miles away. It was just worth the time and drive to get our fix of Chinese comfort food! Golden Leaf is that kind of place.

It recently opened at Shing Long’s former site, with all new owners, cooks and staff. Golden Leaf’s sauces are delicate and tasty, whereas Shing Long was heavy on corn starch. While other Chinese spots serve sushi, and “fusion” foods, Golden Leaf serves a healthier version of the Chinese food popular in the 60’s-90’s, pre-celebrity chef era. They serve fresh, freshly prepared food, Chinese-American style, Mandarin, Szechuan, and Hunan styles too, and lots of it, for a very good price.

The restaurant is across 41 from Naples' Mel’s Diner, in a strip mall. Enter, you’re quickly welcomed to your seat, and service is prompt. Early on a Saturday night, the new place was soon half full! The décor is Spartan to simple, pale yellow walls with some paintings, lighting from overhead large white paper lanterns and “high hats” over the comfortable booths. Very crisp fried noodles are delivered, along with ice water. The menu selection is large. Start with small or large soups respectively for $2.50 and 5.25. Most appetizers are under $7. We shared the beautiful, gargantuan Pu Pu platter appetizer assortment ($19 for two people); it was almost too much for two good eaters to finish! It’s piled high with 2 large egg rolls, 2 fried shrimp, Beef Teriyaki (2 skewers), chicken teriyaki (2 skewers), large juicy chicken wings, gold fried chicken fingers(4), and two large, succulent BBQ spare ribs. We heated our skewers on the

Huge Pu Pu Platter
central little grill. Our favorites were the delicious juicy ribs and the beef teriyaki skewers, followed by the large crisp, yet juicy wings.
Specialty dishes include General Tso’s Chicken (14), delicious Crispy Orange Flavored Beef (15). Mongolian Beef (25), Happy Family with shrimps, scallops chicken and roast pork (18), and Peking Duck for two ($33) classically served. We were very, very happy with our Sizzling Seafood Worba (below) (19), with a 1.25 lb lobster’s tail, shrimp, scallops, surimi seafood, and Chinese vegetables, served on a sizzling hot plate, with a side of white rice. My smiling companion said, “It is just too much for one person to eat,” The seafood is cooked to perfection, tender and moist, and the
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One Third of the Worba on a Plate
lobster sauce is delicate. Our neighbors enjoyed their Crispy Orange Beef, and a pork dish for $11, saying, “Quality just as good as we have in New York.” We filled up, and still filled a takeout Styrofoam container, We had no room for dessert! Special complete dinners are $14, with choice of one soup, one appetizer, and a main course. There are over 30 complete lunch specials from $7-9, with rice, one appetizer and a good sized main course. This is my kind of place- a neighborhood type spot (not over run by tourists), with quick attentive service and generous amounts of great simple classics. It’s familiar Chinese comfort food at great prices (for Naples). There’s wine and beer. Hungry, check out their Sunday buffet, all you can eat, for $8.95! Open 7 days a week, from 11:30 am till 10 pm.

Golden Leaf, 3615 Ninth Street N. (Tamiami Trail N), Park shore Center, 434-6336

Saturday, January 17, 2009

Atlas Traffic Management Systems - Product and Attitude Stinks


Atlas Traffic Management Systems pulled a fast one on Naples, Florida. They contracted years ago to replace ~50 high profile traffic light poles and lights in Naples, and installed ugly, substandard, improperly galvanized painted poles, which have been peeling and rusting for several years. I worry that light poles will fail from cracks, and collapse onto the streets during a storm. Why? "Beauty is skin deep, but ugliness goes to the bone". The company "lies like a rug", by promising over the past two plus years to fix their blatant screw ups, and never delivered on their empty promises. The City of Naples sued them, Atlas got arbitration, and promised to fix at least one intersection by Jan 1, 2009. They never even did that! Atlas Traffic's faulty products and lack of service is a traffic stopper, a , bright red light's warning to other cities of the broken promises, faulty product, and lousy service to expect.
Thinking about hiring proven unreliable Atlas Traffic, with substandard products and 2+ year lack of service exhibited in Naples? Think again! Contact Florida Department of Transportation or Naples Mayor Bill Barnett . http://www.naplesnews.com/news/2009/jan/17/still-ugly-after-all-these-years-deadline-missed-p/ Atlas Senior VP John Coyne cowardly ducks NDNews phone calls, exhibiting no sense of responsibility for his company's failures. Take the money and run, eh, Mr. Coyne?
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Buyers Beware of what I call "Atlas Traffic Mismanagement." Who else is suffering from Atlas' corporate bad faith and bad products?