There's a new kid in town,
and this one is well worth a visit! In a
city with seven delicious Peruvian
restaurants, there's room for another. I
acquired my taste for Peruvian cuisine
whilst visiting Peru- you needn't travel that far to fall in love with the refreshing
cuisine's goodness!
Executive Chef Christopher,
and his wife/Front of House Fabiola Santos dreamed of having their own
restaurant for years, one that would bring Peru's mix of Inca, Spanish,
Italian, Chinese and Japanese styles to the table. They have opened their
restaurant, and will find financial success, in only a few months. How do I know? This is
a very early review; they've only been open a week. I am certain it will only get better with
time, as the chefs try and perfect different variations on dishes. Chef Chris
took time to come to each table and asked for, and truly listened to folks'
impressions and feedback of their overall experience.
There's a welcome clean and
crisp decor, from the attractively patterned seaweed green linoleum floor that sure looks like the ocean in some places (now you'll start noticing
flooring! ) to the focally tiled wall and open kitchen behind the mini cebiche
bar.
Did I mention open kitchen? It'll be your first time seeing a Josper
charcoal oven, which smokes, grills and cooks simultaneously at temperatures
ranging from 300-600 degrees, sealing in a robustly rustic flavor.
The specialty dishes flavors and crispness show off what the Josper can do. Aaah, If only you could get a whiff of the woodsy smoke, however that goes up the ventilation hood.
The specialty dishes flavors and crispness show off what the Josper can do. Aaah, If only you could get a whiff of the woodsy smoke, however that goes up the ventilation hood.
Drinks? There's draft and
bottled beers, wines by glass and bottle, and an assortment of sangrias and soft drinks.
With "coastal" and
" seafood" in the name...you know what to order!
Cebiche and tiraditos are the
barometers of a great Peruvian restaurant, and Coastal has eight cebiches to
sample...and daily specials, too. There's aji amarillo tiradito, with
sashimi-style corvina topped with aji amarillo pepper cream with a hint of
pisco; fish and octopus with arnaucho chili, and a trio of aji amarillo,
soy/sesame, and rocoto cebiches served in shot glasses. Sample Huancaina crema-a reinvention of the classic
potatoes with a yellow pepper cream sauce.
My dining partner and I
started with the "cebiche 200 miles" ($ 19 ), a generous mix of
shrimp, squid, mussels, fish and sliced red onion in a sharply citrusy rocoto
pepper tiger's milk.
It's so fresh, with unusually large chunks of fish (1 1/4" x 1") for cebiche, calamari rings, and freshly shelled mussels. The tigers milk (citrus) acidity is sharper than at other Peruvian spots.
It's so fresh, with unusually large chunks of fish (1 1/4" x 1") for cebiche, calamari rings, and freshly shelled mussels. The tigers milk (citrus) acidity is sharper than at other Peruvian spots.
The octopus carpaccio ($15) is a goodly serving of sliced medium sized au
natural octopus,
topped with a nice blended
olive oil aioli, a dash of tiger's milk, avocado slices and bits of crisp
bacon.
The octopus is delicious with the delicate sauce. While I love bacon on many items, here, I'd recommend asking for the bits to be served on the side, so you can add 'em as you'd like. Recommended.
The octopus is delicious with the delicate sauce. While I love bacon on many items, here, I'd recommend asking for the bits to be served on the side, so you can add 'em as you'd like. Recommended.
Entrees are a mix of the classical
lomo saltado's sautéed beef tenderloin, to the creative tuna Peru-Thai's seared
tuna with panko crust over a lima bean puree with mango, chili and veggies.
Where else will you find an aji amarillo risotto with flambéed beef and
seafood, or chaufa aeropuerto's fried rice and noodles with pork, shrimp and
chicken?
We decided on two of the Josper charcoal
oven's specialties. The Poseidon fest ($23 )
is a stunning presentation with an ample grilled assortment of huge
shrimp, fish, octopus, large scallops and squid. Though it's generously topped
with a rich mildy spicy anticucho sauce, I'd recommend asking for the sauce on
the side, to use as a discrete dip- an accent to the delicate crisp goodness of
the seafood.
The Josper oven's magic is clearly evident with the beautifully golden brown seafood. There's also two slices of toasted thick bread to sop up the sauce. By the time you read this, this will probably be known as their signature dish!
The Josper oven's magic is clearly evident with the beautifully golden brown seafood. There's also two slices of toasted thick bread to sop up the sauce. By the time you read this, this will probably be known as their signature dish!
The
coastal anticuchos ($23 ) are grilled chunks of veal heart, served with yucca
fries and a slice of Peruvian golden
corn. It was ok, it was nicely sauced and cooked well done; I prefer a more tender medium rare...My
bad, I didn't ask for it to be medium rare-lesson learned- next time!
Desserts
were terrific!
Pisco Sour Semifredo ($8) is refreshing, with a splash of the classic
Pisco liquor and lime sauce, blended to a whipped delight. If they added
crunched up bit soft Andes chocolate mints or creme de menthe to the bottom of
the parfait, this would be perfection! Recommended.
The
must have dessert is the Chirimoya martini ($9) , with chunks of the
lychee-textured fruit mixed in a fresh mousseline. Highly recommended.
Other desserts include chocolucuma-
an Andes' fruit blended with
chocolate;with choc-olate; Neapolitan flan, suspiro de limena and caramel
cheesecake
Our very large lunch
assortment, which could easily feed three or four people, was $97, before tax
and tip. There are daily specials that are far more wallet friendly-we wanted
to try the dinner items that also were available at lunch.
Coastal
Peruvian is the new kid on the block...and I predict they'll have tables full
every night, in just a few months of word of mouth advertising.
Coastal Peruvian, 5447
Airport-Pulling Road, is open 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday through Thursday, and
11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday. For information, call 239-631-6943
or go to coastalperuvian.com.
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