Your curiosity (and Googling skills) got you this far- so make reservations for
Grappino now,
then read on!
You, may also soon rave about the
veal-stuffed ravioli; the tenderest
branzino…the luscious seafood bruschetta; a heaping bowl of Tuscan seafood
stew, not to mention the Meringata meringue dessert with lemon curd and
raspberry preserve. Yep. Treat yourself to
lunch or dinner at Grappino, before the line’s out the door-Grappino’s food is
just that delicious. (P.S. It’s far
easier to get a table at lunch, or at 5 pm for dinner!)
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| There's even a fireplace |
I infrequently visit
the same restaurant twice in a year- and rarely dine a second time let alone less than a
week apart. Perhaps when you have lunch or dinner at Naples newest restaurant –Grappino-
you too will have the same desire to quickly return to try these, or other
dishes! There’s five different settings for
dining-outside on the
intimate back
patio with bar;
inside at the stylish bar; or seated in front of
the adjacent charcoal and gas-fired pizza oven.
During
my visits, I sat at the larger open dining room,
as well as at the more intimate small dining
room with its plush chairs and smaller round tables-ideal for couples or trios.
The two dining rooms are separated by the partially glass-enclosed central kitchen.
The décor is simple and whimsical. The central kitchen is cleverly
housed in a white wood-beamed cottage set within the glass-walled modern
building.
Wide light brown wood plank
floors add to the homey warmth. Wine and grappa bottles line one wall in the
smaller dining room.
Murano colored
glass balloons float high over the beautiful wooden tables.
Savvy diners may spot
a real live mermaid.
Timeless, the previous restaurant at this stylish, welcoming
setting, closed suddenly in June. Ingrid
Aielli, and her husband and Chef, Venice,
Italy
native Fabrizio Aielli, already co-owners
of three of Naples’ highly regarded, and quite different restaurants- Sea Salt,
Barbatella, and Dorona- took over the Timeless just months ago. They crafted a warm Italian trattoria setting,
paired with a fitting casual
menu, that
lets you try various Italian regional specialties. The pricing is quite reasonable
for the quality and service.
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| Grappino Co-owner Chef Fabrizio Aielli |
This is as “Mom and Pop” as it gets with meals prepared from scratch.
Ingrid is “front of house” and Chef
Fabrizio ,and
Executive Chef Jason Goddard, are initially at
the helm in the open kitchen.
Chef
Fabrizio uses flavorful
garden-fresh
herbs and local produce when possible. If you look carefully in the front
window, you’ll see his house-made grappa infusions-they’ll be ready to drink in
a month!
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| Chef Jason Goddard and Chef Fabrizio Aielli |
After talking separately to my dentist, a community leader,
a lawyer, and especially strangers at adjacent tables at Grappino over the last
week, I’d venture that 10% of the diners are there for their second time-and Grappino’s
been open less for barely two weeks. The word of mouth network works fast!
The staff’s warmth, knowledge and attention to small details
is apparent, from your first being greeted, being given sage advice (if
requested) on choosing dishes from the menu, through the changing of silverware
and plates when appropriate, with folding of napkins when you leave your seat. I noticed that someone even took time to cut heirloom carrots into six, and seven sided football-shaped forms (tournée
cut)!
I’ve
appreciated the menu and wine suggestions from Eva, and then from Damajna on my two visits;
others have similar praise for their server/guides.
There’s many food, wine, and grappa choices! The menu has seven sections. Nearly
all items are priced and portioned for sharing or sampling. There are but five
more typical entrees (plus daily specials).
That’s a good thing for you-it encourages flexibility in sampling a
variety of appetizers or small pizzas, instead of filling up on one main entree.
First, Cold Cuts. There are currently seven different thin
sliced cuts paired with their region of origin: Prosciutto (di Parma); Culatello (Emiliano);
Speck (Tirolese);
Mortadella (Bologna);
Salame Felino (Baganza Valley); Sopressata
(Veneto); and Bresola (Valtellina).
Each portion is served with a
ramekin of a uniquely
Italian
mixed dried fruit-mustard
preserve (mostarda di
Cremona) , along
with varied olives, mild green peppers, a rosemary twig, and grilled bread
triangles.
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| Speck |
I tried the Prosciutto ($16) , and the Speck ($12), and both are of
the highest quality. Recommended.
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| Prosciutto di Parma |
Next are Cheeses, with at least six offered ($9-12) ;
Parmigiano Reggiano (Emilia); Pecorino Toscano (Firenza); Gorgonzola (Italy);
Caciovavallo (Puglia); Burrata (local); and Buffalo Mozzarella (Campagna.) Your
choice!
The Bruschetta selections ($9-14)
are luscious-don’t even think of comparing
these large offerings to “bruschetta” you’ve had elsewhere!
Any of these bruschettas would be
a meal for a light eater, and the pricing
would be much higher elsewhere.
I rave
about the $14 Alta Marea’s crab, several shrimps, and ample pieces of Maine lobster,
with a light olive oil and balsamic dressing. Highly Recommended!
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| Alta Marea Seafood Bruschetta |
The Campagnola
Bruschetta’s ($9) grilled eggplant, zucchini, peppers, caramelized onions and Greek
yogurt is addictive. Adding the yoghurt makes this “over the top” luscious. Highly Recommended.
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| Just one piece of the Campagnola Bruschetta |
Fritto means crispy, and the Calamari, broccoletti with
provola, bell peppers is lightly fried, and served with a side of ratatouille aioli ($14). This is much lighter, crispier
and flavorful than what you’ll find at other restaurants. Highly Recommended.
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| Calamari Fritto |
Over a dozen Pastas can be ordered separate from, then combined with over a dozen sauces, so there’s
almost 150 combinations. We liked the al dente spaghettini ($9) combined with
the amatriciana’s rich pancetta, onions and tomatoes ($8).
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| Spaghettini with amatriciana sauce |
Perhaps the real
star of Grappino's pasta world is the large and generously veal-stuffed
ravioli pillows ($12)-WOW! We paired it with the roast chicken, green peas and Parmesan cream sauce ($10). I could
have that combo again, and again. Highly recommended.
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| Veal stuffed ravioli with roast chicken Parmesan sauce |
Pizza is crafted Roman-style rather than thin crust
Neapolitan- style, so it has a crisp outer crust, and thicker underlying
dough/crust with a light texture. There are three sizes- to serve 1, 2-3, or
4-5 persons. It’s fun to to try three different styles small pizzas, instead of
just one big one. We had the ($9) Zucchini and zucchini flowers, burrata cheese,
and mint without tomato sauce- it’s a full meal for one person.
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| Zucchini and zucchini flowers, burrata cheese small pizza |
There’s 20
different rectangle pan pizza’s to try, half are with tomato sauce, and half
are Bianca-without tomato sauce. Recommended.
Ah yes, the grappa! There’s over 100 different grappas
($12-40/ounce)
to try.
I favored the Jacobo Poli Miele, a honey-flavored mild grappa. The Nardini Riserva, or the Jacobo Poli Pere (pear) are good and feistier grappas.
I’m eyeing some others to try on my next visit!
Grappa started as
Italian “moonshine” and some varieties offer that raw kick for traditionalists.
There’s dozens of milder grappas to start with at Grappino. Grappa “sommelier” Barry
is great at suggesting ones for you to savor.
Favor wine? There are generous pours for $8-14 by the glass,
and about 100 reds and whites offered, from
Italian Pinot Grigio to big and bold Super Tuscans (my choice), Barolo,
and Amarones,
too. Perhaps sip a Purple
Hands Pinot Noir from the Willamette Valley, or a Paul Hobbs California
Chardonnay. There’s a full bar, too.
I’ve savored three of the five mains, or entrees.
The Beef Brasato ($34) offers large cuts of savory
slow-braised Wagyu beef, simmered in Barolo wine.
Wagyu is THE tops in beef marbling and
flavor-it’s
not the usual choice, select
or even prime USDA grades found in other restaurants). The braise is enriched by bok choy, potatoes, carrots, and other root vegetables.
I appreciated
that some of the orange, red, and purple heirloom carrots were painstakingly
cut into six, or even seven sided oblongs-a typically French haute cuisine
feature! This is a carnivore’s comfort food! Recommended.
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| Beef Brasato |
You’ve perhaps had Branzino elsewhere. This boneless whole
branzino ($42) may well be THE best you’ve had-it was the best I've ever had. The whole fish is
baked in white wine with capers, olives, cherry tomatoes and broccolini.
Your branzino is first presented whole at table side. It then goes back to the kitchen to be filleted, and
returned to your plate.
It’s so tender,
so flavorful, and truly worth the price. Highly Recommended!
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| Branzino before fileting and serving |
Seafood lovers will also enjoy the Cacciucco- a classic Tuscan
seafood stew.
This large bowl of tomato-based rich comfort food is amply filled with calamari, mussels, snapper, monkfish and octopus ($36). Its complex flavor comes from slow cooking, with hints of garlic, aniseed, various peppers, parsley,
thyme, and bay leaves. It’s similar to a French bouillabaisse, Greek kakavia,
or San Franciscan cioppino. Highly Recommended.
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| Tuscan seafood stew |
Save room for desserts.
We were “over the moon” with Meringata ($9)-the Italian meringue
atop lemon curd, with a dollop of raspberry
preserve. Highly recommended.
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| Meringata dessert |
Chocaholics will swoon over the generous profiteroles ($9),
topped with Gianduja chocolate sauce-it’s a traditional mix of chocolate and roasted
hazelnuts, that fits between dark chocolate and milk chocolate. Highly
Recommended!
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| Profiteroles with Gianduja chocolate |
There’s also Tiramisu with Amaretto cookies with Bailey’s
liquor, and a daily selection or biscotti or pastry.
Yes, we took home some portions, and noted the boxes to be
recyclable, not plastic or Styrofoam containers. Thank you.
Grappino has its own niche in Naples-its nicely differentiated
by its location and offerings from Sea Salt, Dorona, Barbatella and other fine
Italian/Mediterranean spots.
Savvy diners may spot
a real live mermaid.
Grappa started as
Italian “moonshine” and some varieties offer that raw kick for traditionalists.
There’s dozens of milder grappas to start with at Grappino. Grappa “sommelier” Barry
is great at suggesting ones for you to savor.
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