The best Indian restaurant in SW Florida is 21 Spices by
Chef Asif, hands down! I've eaten there thrice in the last month, (only their
first month of existence) and it just gets better and better. Whether you live in N. fort Myers or Everglades City, the
drive is well worth the evening's dining.
Enter the restaurant from its generous parking lot just off
Tamiami Trail East and Sugden/Avalon, East of Town Center Mall, and you find
yourself whisked to a scene that would be a tasteful set of Scheherazade. Overhead lamps provide a too gentle light to a muted
palette of off white walls and columns, black and white chairs and grey banquet seating. There's an elegant full
bar off to the right, a mini stage for musicians to the far left, and the
spacious dining room with a peek into the kitchen in front of you, capped with
black, grey and white glass tiles.
Racked and chilled wines are open for your inspection- these are serious
wines, not an amateur's collection.
You are quickly greeted, escorted to your table, and given a choice of chilled tap or bottled water, and a dish of colorful dal lentil flour crisps, accompanied by a trio of chutney and sauces. My favorite is the tropical chutney's diced mango, pineapple, raisins, cilantro and a note of chili. The tamarind sauce has layers of rich flavor, and the Spring-fresh cream-based mint sauce has a touch of cilantro. Lighting is low at the tables on the outer rim, and adding a few candles did help to make the menu almost readable. Must be my aging eyes? Not a real problem, as some at several tables used the flashlight app on their cell phones to peruse the menu and have a glimpse at the true colors of their meal.
You are quickly greeted, escorted to your table, and given a choice of chilled tap or bottled water, and a dish of colorful dal lentil flour crisps, accompanied by a trio of chutney and sauces. My favorite is the tropical chutney's diced mango, pineapple, raisins, cilantro and a note of chili. The tamarind sauce has layers of rich flavor, and the Spring-fresh cream-based mint sauce has a touch of cilantro. Lighting is low at the tables on the outer rim, and adding a few candles did help to make the menu almost readable. Must be my aging eyes? Not a real problem, as some at several tables used the flashlight app on their cell phones to peruse the menu and have a glimpse at the true colors of their meal.
Janet, our server on my second visit was knowledgeable and attentive,
listening to our preferences, and making quite helpful suggestions. Gregory, our server on my third visit, is a
hoot! He's sharp, funny, uber professional, and we would have had him join our
table if the restaurant wasn't packed! We started with a highly recommended
bottle of Whispering Angel Rose form Provence.
Alternatively, you may want to have a cocktail or a beer, there's plenty
of choices.
The Shahi baby lamb chops ($12) are a tiny trio of succulent
goodness that we savored medium rare. The
New Zealand baby chops are wonderfully
seasoned with a mixture that includes of English mustard and mint, and are roasted to perfection. Highly
Recommended.
Palakwala chaat ($8)
is a dish I'd have overlooked, were one of my dining companions not such a
chaat aficionado. Baby lettuce is dipped in a mixture of yogurt, tamarind and
dates, then briefly fried in a gluten
free bean flour till light and crunchy. This was pronounced to be a superb
chaat by my Indian food maven! Highly
recommended.
Lamb Biryani was good on flavor, however the lamb was
overcooked, and the quantity of meat was underwhelming.
Ghehra Paani diver
scallops ($14) are a lovely trio of
properly cooked large scallops in a tasty yet mild brown sauce with black
lentils, topped with red tomato jus and yellow pepper coulis. Recommended.
Progressive chicken 65 was a well received surprise ($8), a goodly
portion of small chunks of still crisp
boneless diced chicken, cooked in a red
sauce of ginger, curry leaves, yogurt, chilies onion and bell peppers. Highly
Recommended.
Mazedaar samosa ($8)
brings a taste trip of nicely fried samosas, filled wiht spiced potato and
green peas, with a drizzle of tamarind -date chutney. I don't get why Chef Asif
likes a round number of three, when most diners are in pairs or quartets. Maybe triplets frequent 21 Spices? Whatever. These addictive bites
are Highly Recommended.
Vegetarian? Nizam's kofte ($18) has addictive vegetable and
cheese dumplings simmered in a rich saffron sauce, with a dash of lemon and
coriander is your new best friend forever!
The small meatball-sized dumpling have such an enticing texture and
quality that can make dining companions fight over them...or order another
serving. Highly Recommended.
Entrees are varied, and include Jhinga prawns, Lucknowi
grouper, tandoori Pacific shrimp, chicken tikka masala, Madras chicken, 21
spices lamb chops and a variety of biryanis Prices range from $22 to 30.
Judiging by the packed dining room on all three visits; patrons consider the
pricing quite reasonable for the quality.
The entrees come with a choice of delicate aromatic
basmati rice or naan. Very simple, if
you order a dish which has a prominent sauce, get the rice to really soak up
the sauce-that's the rice's forte. We additionally opted to add an order of dry
fruit and nuts naan ($7). It's a well crafted naan, forged in a proper tandoori oven till just crisp and focally blackened. The puffy garlic naan really appeals to my ersatz Italian ancestry
with a wash of oil and garlic. Both additional naans are recommended.
Lamb rogan josh ($22)
is a Northern Indian/Kashmiri
favorite, with lamb simmered in a brown onion and tomato reduction. It was ok, with the lamb on the well done
side.
Saffron coconut chicken curry ($18) is mildly (ok, for
Neapolitans tender palates," moderate") spiced with chilis, and certainly milder than
a vindaloo. It's a generous portion of
bite-sized chicken, bathed in a
creamy sauce of saffron, tahini, coconut, almond cream, and mint, then topped
with crispy onions. Recommended.
Madras chicken ($18 ) is a mildly spiced dish, with ample succulent
chicken in an anise, curry leaf, coconut
milk and mustard red sauce. Though
described as spicy, it's mild to me. Recommended.
Chicken tikka masala ($18), that oh so British national
dish, is a star with Chef Asif. Tandoori chicken breast chunks are simmered in
a mild creamy tomato sauce. Looking over the various chicken dishes we've had,
it's clear that there's little similarity in the spicing between the
dishes. Recommended.
Tthe Kohinoor of the
Ocean ($30) a tandoori grilled quartet
of small lobster tail, salmon, a medium-sized scallop, another fish and shrimp, basted in yogurt, chili, curry cilantro and
mint. The portion is sized for a small to moderate diner; the seafood was
tender. The salmon and scallop were good, both just shy of being overcooked. Lets
face it , when the difference is a matter of seconds of cooking time, your dish
will probably be spot on. Recommended.
Have a big appetite? The lamb shank is your match on both
the quantity of meat and the flavors. Best part? The onion strings that have
such concentrated flavor! Recommended.
We were amply fed, and very happy with our service and
cuisine. I (and my expanding waistline) can't resist dessert, looking down the
list with saffron ginger kulfi (ice cream), coconut laddoo milk balls dipped in
chocolate, and rose flavored rice pudding.
We chose the gold
leaf shahi tukda's India fried toast ($8) , on a bed of rich custard, topped
with pistachio ice cream, a strawberry slice, and a few strands of 24 karat
gold leaf. There were no complaints about this mildly
sweet dish. Recommended.
The saffron ginger kulfi
($6) got polar reviews-one guest
clearly didn't like it-her one and only spoonful had a strong scent that could have cleared her
sinuses so she picked at the pistachios-the server took it off our bill. And
another guest finished her kulfi and was
ok with it. I had a taste, and felt it to be "meh."
Those with a decided sweet tooth (or set of sweet teeth?)
should select the gulab jamun ($8) , which I can inadequately describe as a dense fried fritter-like sugared milk solid ball ,
saturated with saffron-cardamon rose syrup. It's so rich a dish that several
can share it-it's my favorite of the desert selections. Recommended.
The rose flavored rice pudding ($6) was good, with gently cooked basmati rice in
milk with rose syrup, topped with cashews and raisins.
We left each time, more than happily filled with delicious
food, and the hours in the elegant dining room passed unnoticed- a sign of both delicious food and
enjoyable dining companions. A sign by
the door noted to newcomers that the restaurant was full (as on the previous
two weeks) and could not take an y walk ins. Not bad for a spot that' barely
open for but a month, and located out on the East Trail, no less! Any
competition? Nope, Naples Passage to India, or Fort Myers' India Palace do not
come close on decor, flavor or price. This is THE Indian restaurant to savor,
and it's one of my top restaurants of all the cuisines offered in the two
counties.
We'll be back to try
more.
4270 Tamiami Trail East, #21, Naples, 919=8830
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